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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
10-4 on the press. Got a cheap one on the way home. Should have had one years ago. Well new shims, bearings and races and the carrier is in and torqued. So let me run these by y'all, the three hub bearing bolts? anti-seize or a thread locker? I also noticed a yellow marking on the brake caliper bolts when cleaning em up. Was this originally thread lock? Shoot I've been using anti-seize for 20 years on those! Thanks. I just might get to back this boy out of the garage tomorrow!! Thanks again.
Hub assembly what I do is take 120 grit and clean the mounting surface and the inside circle. Then I add anti-seize to the mounting surface inside the circle and the bolts. I had to replace mine about every year and they would almost fall out. As for the caliper bolts that was a form of thread locker but I never used any on them.
Thanks guys. I cheated and wire wheeled the crap out of everything. I spent too much time cleaning the axle tubes though. ( overkill). made kind of a flapper wheel with 120 grit. It did really well, just having to wipe all that crap out is a pain. Kinda like cleaning a very large and dirty gun. I'd figure that will last a month or so. Also had some trouble getting the passenger side axle seal in. This is the third time i've done it, you would think I knew how to do it a third time. Guess not , but it finally seated good. So the front differential is complete minus the gear oil. I'll do that tomorrow. I used anti seize on all the bolts and hub. And yes MoparFanatic21, they do come right out. I only say this because I had to take it back apart and turn that damn shield around. For the front differential, the Haynes manual recommends 90 W GL-5, Dodge service manual states 75W-140 synthetic. I have 75W,80W and 90W. I was just going to mix it all together. Just kidding. So what is yawl's take on the gear lube? Thanks so so much!!
Thanks guys. I cheated and wire wheeled the crap out of everything. I spent too much time cleaning the axle tubes though. ( overkill). made kind of a flapper wheel with 120 grit. It did really well, just having to wipe all that crap out is a pain. Kinda like cleaning a very large and dirty gun. I'd figure that will last a month or so. Also had some trouble getting the passenger side axle seal in. This is the third time i've done it, you would think I knew how to do it a third time. Guess not , but it finally seated good. So the front differential is complete minus the gear oil. I'll do that tomorrow. I used anti seize on all the bolts and hub. And yes MoparFanatic21, they do come right out. I only say this because I had to take it back apart and turn that damn shield around. For the front differential, the Haynes manual recommends 90 W GL-5, Dodge service manual states 75W-140 synthetic. I have 75W,80W and 90W. I was just going to mix it all together. Just kidding. So what is yawl's take on the gear lube? Thanks so so much!!
Thanks for that. The last two times I've towed on the interstate with a single axle 6x10 with only a log splitter and a couple of cans fuel, I ended up blowing the tranny seal. At least the second time it was under warranty.
Hope to be doing a test run today. Hope there ain't no snap, crackle or pop!!!!
Best bet to get it back in is stick the whole carrier in the freezer for a day or two then use a plastic hammer to hammer out in. If you wanted to go a step further heat up the case a little with a propane torch. The freezer and hammer truck worked for me the two times I did it (only ever rebuilt two axles which was one set from a single truck ). I bought the spreader to prepare rebuilding my 2500 axles as it got old getting it in and out without one lol. Never knew how they worked as it was one a buddies truck and he sold it about two weeks after it, but it ran with no noise.
Hey Austin, how much preload you using on your carrier bearings? When I did mine, I just went to snug and I could pull the carrier in/out without the spreader (just used a pry bar and a rubber hammer). The bearings lasted a long time just running that much preload.
FYI- I've never used the spreader, as it can twist/stretch the housing.
Thanks for that. The last two times I've towed on the interstate with a single axle 6x10 with only a log splitter and a couple of cans fuel, I ended up blowing the tranny seal. At least the second time it was under warranty.
Hope to be doing a test run today. Hope there ain't no snap, crackle or pop!!!!
Hey Austin, how much preload you using on your carrier bearings? When I did mine, I just went to snug and I could pull the carrier in/out without the spreader (just used a pry bar and a rubber hammer). The bearings lasted a long time just running that much preload.
FYI- I've never used the spreader, as it can twist/stretch the housing.
Hey Mike! Yes they are specs to how much you can spread the case before you get damage. Haven't rebuilt these ones yet as I just haven't had time. The left ones I did for a second gen they got an Eaton e-locker and they wanted a pretty snug preload. I can't remember exactly how much. The ring gear was pushed so far into the pinion I thought it would grind. Sending pictures to Eaton they said it was perfect. Truck is still riding around today with my setup and they was 6 years ago.
The bean is out of the garage!!! Did a quick test run and nothing broke or leaked. I greatly appreciate all the knowledge and advice. Believe me, I would have broken a lot more stuff than I already did. I'll take it out again tomorrow give a decent test. Haven't locked it in yet, definitely want to do that. Did I mention I am sore as hell. Thanks again guys!!!
). I bought the spreader to prepare rebuilding my 2500 axles as it got old getting it in and out without one lol. Never knew how they worked as it was one a buddies truck and he sold it about two weeks after it, but it ran with no noise.
