Anyone ever do a Shackle Flip?
I am looking at the one from Apoc Industries and it looks like it has everything that I need to do the flip, but also replace the front shackle hanger as well to shift the axle back to where it belongs after the flip.
Anyone ever use them or do something similar?
Anyone ever use them or do something similar?
As long as it has a zero rate you are good. I installed them before on other trucks and plan to do it to mine too get rid of the factory block. When I did them I always removed the bed as it was easier
I've done several on OBS Fords and one on a square body GM
We always grabbed the front spring hanger for the rear springs (from a donor) and put it at the rear. Looking at the '98 Ram here not sure that'd gain you much lift w the Dodge hangers. However it looks easy to enclose the factory rear hanger, cut a hole and just flip the shackle. However you'd need to move the hanger forward to get a good shackle angle. OR you could move the front hanger back a bit.
Typically flips are 1/2 the amount of lift for the amount you drop the rear spring eye. This is a ROUGH rule of thumb.
The Apoc stuff looks sweet, but $400 is a chunk of change for what is usually a fun DIY project with JY parts.....
We always grabbed the front spring hanger for the rear springs (from a donor) and put it at the rear. Looking at the '98 Ram here not sure that'd gain you much lift w the Dodge hangers. However it looks easy to enclose the factory rear hanger, cut a hole and just flip the shackle. However you'd need to move the hanger forward to get a good shackle angle. OR you could move the front hanger back a bit.
Typically flips are 1/2 the amount of lift for the amount you drop the rear spring eye. This is a ROUGH rule of thumb.
The Apoc stuff looks sweet, but $400 is a chunk of change for what is usually a fun DIY project with JY parts.....
I was chatting with the folks and they come with front replacement hangers as well that have adjustment holes so you can move the front of the spring back into the proper position to eliminate the need for the zero rate. Here is a picture of their front hanger.
They say that the flip will add 6 inches of lift, so I am assuming that this will still include the stock lift block. I just need to get rid of the crappy stacked blocks that the PO did.
They say that the flip will add 6 inches of lift, so I am assuming that this will still include the stock lift block. I just need to get rid of the crappy stacked blocks that the PO did.
I was chatting with the folks and they come with front replacement hangers as well that have adjustment holes so you can move the front of the spring back into the proper position to eliminate the need for the zero rate. Here is a picture of their front hanger.
They say that the flip will add 6 inches of lift, so I am assuming that this will still include the stock lift block. I just need to get rid of the crappy stacked blocks that the PO did.

They say that the flip will add 6 inches of lift, so I am assuming that this will still include the stock lift block. I just need to get rid of the crappy stacked blocks that the PO did.

6 inch is with the stock block I think you get around 2in without the stock block
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^^^I like the uber duty shackles there. Factory stamped sheetmetal will fold over in time because the leverage on the shackles is much greater in compression than in tension
edit: it's easy to reinforce stock shackles with flat bar and bright light + sparks, though ....er I guess the sparks are optional if you TIG it
edit: it's easy to reinforce stock shackles with flat bar and bright light + sparks, though ....er I guess the sparks are optional if you TIG it









