Short Tube Headers vs Long Tube
#21
For what its worth, I've installed both Pacesetter and JBA coated shorties on my 5.9 4x4 truck. The Pacesetter shorties didn't fit as well, as they had to be properly aligned with the factory Y pipe to connect to the stock exhaust. I ended up removing them and selling them to someone else. The JBA coated headers fit like a glove. There were absolutely no issues installing them. The coating still looks great after several years of running them on the truck. Shorty headers are the easiest to install vs. long tube headers due to the exhaust modifications that are required to the stock exhaust for long tube headers. Shorty headers are a true bolt-on modification with no stock exhaust modifications.
#22
#23
I think the pissing match started with witch is easier to install. Does that include the rest of the exhaust or just the headers? That was never put in the mix. I had a set of brand new mopar performance header long tubes that must have been made on a Friday around quitting time. The passenger side collector was pointing downward. So does fixing the factory mistakes add to the equation also? There are a lot of variables to consider when saying witch is better. I think the better question is witch is best for YOU.
#24
The only available longtubes are Pacesetter 4-1s and to install then it’s a couple sawzall cuts and a couple clamps then 10-15 minutes to bolt it all up. That’s on these specifically. Most modern vehicles the bolt up to factory catback systems and require no modification at all, the only problem with them being bolt accessibility.
As far as these are concerned, Pacesetter LTs are the only headers I would say are even remotely worthwhile. Shorties aren’t doing anything for you with a stock y pipe and that tiny ball collector. If you want them to do something for you, gotta cut that off and run a custom 2.5” y pipe like I mentioned earlier and then the benefit of “no modification to stock exhaust” goes completely out the window. All while taking over an hour to tighten all the bolts if you use the right bolts.
i didn’t intend to have a pissing match but a lot of what was posted is myth and misleading. Having ACTUALLY done them both on these trucks, longtubes are far easier, especially on a 4x4 where you don’t even have to drop the starter
As far as these are concerned, Pacesetter LTs are the only headers I would say are even remotely worthwhile. Shorties aren’t doing anything for you with a stock y pipe and that tiny ball collector. If you want them to do something for you, gotta cut that off and run a custom 2.5” y pipe like I mentioned earlier and then the benefit of “no modification to stock exhaust” goes completely out the window. All while taking over an hour to tighten all the bolts if you use the right bolts.
i didn’t intend to have a pissing match but a lot of what was posted is myth and misleading. Having ACTUALLY done them both on these trucks, longtubes are far easier, especially on a 4x4 where you don’t even have to drop the starter
#25
The only available longtubes are Pacesetter 4-1s and to install then it’s a couple sawzall cuts and a couple clamps then 10-15 minutes to bolt it all up. That’s on these specifically. Most modern vehicles the bolt up to factory catback systems and require no modification at all, the only problem with them being bolt accessibility.
As far as these are concerned, Pacesetter LTs are the only headers I would say are even remotely worthwhile. Shorties aren’t doing anything for you with a stock y pipe and that tiny ball collector. If you want them to do something for you, gotta cut that off and run a custom 2.5” y pipe like I mentioned earlier and then the benefit of “no modification to stock exhaust” goes completely out the window. All while taking over an hour to tighten all the bolts if you use the right bolts.
i didn’t intend to have a pissing match but a lot of what was posted is myth and misleading. Having ACTUALLY done them both on these trucks, longtubes are far easier, especially on a 4x4 where you don’t even have to drop the starter
As far as these are concerned, Pacesetter LTs are the only headers I would say are even remotely worthwhile. Shorties aren’t doing anything for you with a stock y pipe and that tiny ball collector. If you want them to do something for you, gotta cut that off and run a custom 2.5” y pipe like I mentioned earlier and then the benefit of “no modification to stock exhaust” goes completely out the window. All while taking over an hour to tighten all the bolts if you use the right bolts.
i didn’t intend to have a pissing match but a lot of what was posted is myth and misleading. Having ACTUALLY done them both on these trucks, longtubes are far easier, especially on a 4x4 where you don’t even have to drop the starter
I've been following this post because I would like to do headers next. Seems to be alot of mixed opinions. I did like the sound of shortys bolting up to factory y pipes, but I want what going to give me the most noticeable gain. I recently just got a tune done from utawesome and he suggests long tube headers for low end torque. I am not building my truck to race I just want to squeeze whatever power I can for towing. Appreciate the knowledge of you veterans on here. I'm learning lots and want to learn more.
#26
#27
Yeah, most dyno charts start around 2500 RPM or so.... Which for a truck, in my view, is pretty useless. My truck RARELY sees 2500 RPM.....
That said, determining which is 'best' for you, is very close to black magic. Tube diameter, tube length, and pipe diameter all play a role in where torque is produced, and how much you gain. Pretty much anything is better than the stock manifolds. Larger primary pipes tend to raise torque peak, longer tubes build more torque in the lower RPM range, while sacrificing power in the higher ranges...... Everything is a compromise.
Overall though, long tubes will give you the best bang for the buck, assuming that the rest of the exhaust isn't then the restriction.....
That said, determining which is 'best' for you, is very close to black magic. Tube diameter, tube length, and pipe diameter all play a role in where torque is produced, and how much you gain. Pretty much anything is better than the stock manifolds. Larger primary pipes tend to raise torque peak, longer tubes build more torque in the lower RPM range, while sacrificing power in the higher ranges...... Everything is a compromise.
Overall though, long tubes will give you the best bang for the buck, assuming that the rest of the exhaust isn't then the restriction.....
#28
Yeah, most dyno charts start around 2500 RPM or so.... Which for a truck, in my view, is pretty useless. My truck RARELY sees 2500 RPM.....
That said, determining which is 'best' for you, is very close to black magic. Tube diameter, tube length, and pipe diameter all play a role in where torque is produced, and how much you gain. Pretty much anything is better than the stock manifolds. Larger primary pipes tend to raise torque peak, longer tubes build more torque in the lower RPM range, while sacrificing power in the higher ranges...... Everything is a compromise.
Overall though, long tubes will give you the best bang for the buck, assuming that the rest of the exhaust isn't then the restriction.....
That said, determining which is 'best' for you, is very close to black magic. Tube diameter, tube length, and pipe diameter all play a role in where torque is produced, and how much you gain. Pretty much anything is better than the stock manifolds. Larger primary pipes tend to raise torque peak, longer tubes build more torque in the lower RPM range, while sacrificing power in the higher ranges...... Everything is a compromise.
Overall though, long tubes will give you the best bang for the buck, assuming that the rest of the exhaust isn't then the restriction.....
Yes this makes sense absolutely. I'm to cheap to buy from summit or wherever online. If I see a lightly used set or new but not installed from someone on Craig'slist I'll get them even if they are shortys. Lower torque gains is what I'm after though as I want this truck best as it can be from 0-60 for towing. Alot of my friends always tell me k should of bought a chevy lol but I've had this truck for ten years and sunk alot into it.
#29
Yes this makes sense absolutely. I'm to cheap to buy from summit or wherever online. If I see a lightly used set or new but not installed from someone on Craig'slist I'll get them even if they are shortys. Lower torque gains is what I'm after though as I want this truck best as it can be from 0-60 for towing. Alot of my friends always tell me k should of bought a chevy lol but I've had this truck for ten years and sunk alot into it.
#30
Ya .....well...........lol. I got over 10 grand into this truck and looks like no turning back lol.dont have the heart to sell it. If I was to get a newer truck it's be chevy 6.0L 3/4 ton or the new Ford godzilla!