Valve Spring installation help
#11
Are you putting on new springs? Or reinstalling the old ones? Were there any shims under the old springs? If I had to hazard a guess, even if you are putting on new springs, I don't think installed height is going to vary much, likely still well within spec. Do the seals, put 'em back together. Call it a day.
If you had bent the first valves you did, the valves wouldn't close completely, either that, or they would become wedged in the guides...... If you can compress the springs, and the valves actually move, should be fine.
If you had bent the first valves you did, the valves wouldn't close completely, either that, or they would become wedged in the guides...... If you can compress the springs, and the valves actually move, should be fine.
#12
Are you putting on new springs? Or reinstalling the old ones? Were there any shims under the old springs? If I had to hazard a guess, even if you are putting on new springs, I don't think installed height is going to vary much, likely still well within spec. Do the seals, put 'em back together. Call it a day.
If you had bent the first valves you did, the valves wouldn't close completely, either that, or they would become wedged in the guides...... If you can compress the springs, and the valves actually move, should be fine.
If you had bent the first valves you did, the valves wouldn't close completely, either that, or they would become wedged in the guides...... If you can compress the springs, and the valves actually move, should be fine.
No new springs. There was no shims. I suspect, the springs have been replaced before. I'm not sure though. The plenum seems to have been replaced as it is magnetic. I think I am just massively over thinking everything thinks to some advice and a confusing manual.
Things are moving quicker now, quarter of the way there. Had a valve slip in but by some miracle using a magnet I was able to get it to slide back up rotating the motor.
trying not to worry about the rocker arms too much but i don't fully understand the installation there either..
#14
If you don't already have one, download the service manual for your truck from here. There is a procedure for doing the rockers in there.
On the home stretch now though! Just gotta get these broken exhaust manifold bolts off and figure out why this plenum gasket will not come off...
#15
If you don't already have one, download the service manual for your truck from here. There is a procedure for doing the rockers in there.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...nti-seize.html
I could be wrong but I think here you are advising that it is pointless?
#16
#17
I would rather not take them out again obviously but if necessary I will gladly do it to save me from doing this job again in a week
#18
#20
If anyone finds this thread in the future seeking help-
Put something thin and soft down the spark plug hole and spin the motor till you can't anymore. You can't because the motor can't finish it's rotation because your hose is blocking it, and holding up those valves. This is important because your valves can slip and fall into the headers and because it makes it way easier to install the spring keepers.
You don't even really have to know where the pistons are or worry too much about the notches because all you're doing is making the installation process easier. This isn't about timing the engine or getting the springs to spec. Just making the installing process easier (possible).
Rocker arms, torque em to 21 ft lbs. You could rotate the motor as I did and check the rocker arm torque while the push rods are not being pushed on by the spring, but it seems to make no difference. I just torqued em to 21 first, went around and checked and none of them needed any more. Its a 'pedestal mount', they are just holding the rods in place. Not effecting the height of spring or play in push rod. These instructions are for stock springs and rocker arms, apparently it differs with upgrades.
The motor takes an 1 1/4" socket to turn it. Once you put springs and rocker arms on, it should get very difficult to turn with just your hands.
Probably use blue locktite on all your header bolts. I noticed coolant in them so it must serve as some sort of water jacket, idk though. Couldn't hurt to use it.
Put something thin and soft down the spark plug hole and spin the motor till you can't anymore. You can't because the motor can't finish it's rotation because your hose is blocking it, and holding up those valves. This is important because your valves can slip and fall into the headers and because it makes it way easier to install the spring keepers.
You don't even really have to know where the pistons are or worry too much about the notches because all you're doing is making the installation process easier. This isn't about timing the engine or getting the springs to spec. Just making the installing process easier (possible).
Rocker arms, torque em to 21 ft lbs. You could rotate the motor as I did and check the rocker arm torque while the push rods are not being pushed on by the spring, but it seems to make no difference. I just torqued em to 21 first, went around and checked and none of them needed any more. Its a 'pedestal mount', they are just holding the rods in place. Not effecting the height of spring or play in push rod. These instructions are for stock springs and rocker arms, apparently it differs with upgrades.
The motor takes an 1 1/4" socket to turn it. Once you put springs and rocker arms on, it should get very difficult to turn with just your hands.
Probably use blue locktite on all your header bolts. I noticed coolant in them so it must serve as some sort of water jacket, idk though. Couldn't hurt to use it.