I knew which way it turns, but not the common, DRB, Snapon defintion of + and - for sync.

 

I *think* + is advanced, and - is retarded.

 

Exactly !

And no, again you're falling into the trap of thinking the cam sensor is used to *time* injectors when it only *selects* injectors (as you correctly stated above). The fuel sync adjustment makes sure the PCM knows far enough in advance which injectors are coming up so it can go through its internal processing. If fuel sync is too far off the PCM will fire the wrong injectors.

 

Well, I tried a few things to get it to settle in.
A couple of battery offs, reloaded 'death flash', and turned the distributor clockwise gradually - about a full wire post - looking for a limit to 1391.
Never found one, but it ran so smooth, idled right at 700 without any hunting, no codes, etc., I could not justify touching it again.

So ended up as:
CPS at mechanical limit after slotting (from before),
stock cam advanced 12 degrees (degreed out to 3.5 advanced),
distributor CW about a wire from oil drive at 1 bolt, and dist at cyl 1 (by the book).

I imagine :
I made up for crank sensor, cam advance and chain slop.

Purrs - I'm out for now!

I gotta' wait a couple of days for inspection, then I can try some OTR tuning.
(I'm just too old for stupid tickets...)

 

So, got it inspected and battery tested.
600 amps from a much bigger battery - 850 or so - so 30% deficient.
Rolling fine, hot idle oil pressure in the 4 character of 40 .
Steady 600 RPMS.
NEW battery, hoping it fix P0505 (that does not troubleshoot) since it can be a starting voltage problem.

 

P0505 is for IAC circuit...... Check the connector for the IAC, (unplug it) should see 12 volts on two of the wires.

 

While this topic is alive. I need some Info. When I put in a new double roller timing set In my 5.9 I used the cloyes and weren’t ahead and advanced the cam +4 degrees from stock with the timing set. Fuel sync is also set on +4 afterwards. Is this ok or should I be retarding the distributor? I tried to research this as much as possible when I did but didn’t get all the info I was looking for. But did it anyways. My truck runs fine no issues. I just wanted to advance the timing to maybe get some more top end out of it. I just want to know if I have it all set up right or should I set my distributor somewhere else?

 

That's what I meant when I said it doesn't troubleshoot - been through all the pages 3 or 4 times - no faults found.
Others say standing low battery voltage can cause this - as it is checked as it starts (I can get the code without actually starting).

 

Thus the thread! This is where I started.
My P1391 extremes test didn't work - ran out of travel before I got to other side.
I don't think DIY types have actually tested while reading/setting sync - we're just twisting 'til it runs.
I'm also not sure sure that isn't exactly right after moving parts' timing anyway.

I do recall advance should improve LOWER end - not top end.

I brought my stock cam along almost 12 degrees advanced - to where it checks at +3.5 - hoping for low end efficiency.

 

My never threw any codes or anything. I used snap on scanner to set my fuel sync I just didn’t know if I had it set up right or not. Still kinda confused on it