I meant that it is firing one the number one cylinder when it is on top dead center on the compression stroke. It fires at about 20 degrees btdc with a timing light on it. I did try starting fluid and it didn't change anything. I just took an ohm reading on all the injectors and they all came out to just under 13 ohms. I tries very slowly rotating the distributor both ways while cranking it over incase the fuel sync was slightly off and it made no difference either. How can you tell if the camshaft is out of time without ripping back into the new motor.

 

You might find this information helpful in your quest to start your motor - http://utawesomeperformance.com/magn...shaft-faq.html

Also, this video -

 

In regard to the Camshaft being out of time, you could remove the valve cover and compare the camshaft position in relation to TDC etc. You can see in the harmonic balancer should have a mark for TDC.

In a situation like this, I would approach it by removing all the spark plugs, attach my fancy starter actuator trigger tool to be able to easily bump the starter by push button ( you could enlist a helper or do it by hand ) rotate the engine until you feel air escaping on #1.

Though bumping the starter can be less desirable because its hard to control how much revolution you get, it certainly alleviates any confusion about what direction the engine should be turning while you are trying to check all your timing and alignment. It's possible to turn things the wrong direction and then install the timing improperly.

MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT CONFUSED ABOUT WHICH ONE IS NUMBER ONE

I have seen people think #1 is in a different position and run all the plug wires wrong. Guess what... no starty start.

On my vehicle, the fuel injector electrical connectors are all marked with a tape with the cylinder number on it. I see also some folks posted diagrams above.

Any case, verify actual pressure coming out of the #1 spark plug port. This verifies the compression stroke. you can then go to TDC and compare the expected cam angles at TDC ( and other angles ) to any camshaft angle reference chart. This will confirm if you have the cam in proper time or not. In some cases you can view marks on a timing belt, but it often takes many many revolutions to get the marks to line up. Much faster to observe the cam angle as a quick check.


Once you are clear you are on the compression stroke, then I would double check the distributor. It has a rounded ear on one side and a square ear on the other. However if you really really tried, you might be able to install it wrong. This could produce zero spark or incorrect spark angles.

So at this point, I usually write with permanent marker on every post of the distributor, which cylinder it goes to. all the way around the Distributor, I write the numbers. Then I follow each wire to plug in to the proper spark plug.

While you are at the distributor, observe direction of rotation on the rotor while you rotate the engine clockwise. Remember that number one should be firing BEFORE top dead center. Its possible to mess this up and install the shaft so you are one pole late or off time. When i'm doing this, I align the round and square dog ears of the distributor cap and note the position of #1. I then hold my pen in place at number one, remove the cap, and mark the number one pole position on the base of the rotor plate or the distributor assembly. Now its very easy to see, yes, the rotor is approaching the number one position correctly. Or, Holy cow it's way off...

At this point another test you can do is with a spark check tool. It's a common method to just put in a spark plug on the wire and ground it somehow and observe the spark. However, it may be hard to tell if its weak. If you think you have spark, but the truck no start even with fluid, then it might be worth getting a spark check tool. It will be set at a distance and the spark should be blue.

Which brings me to electrical... Putting in a new engine, make sure you put all the proper ground wires between the Chassy, ECM and Engine. Should all have common connection on the Ground bus. If the engine is not grounded to the ECM then the spark signal may not work properly.

Now, if you've gotten this far and you add 3 seconds of starter fluid spray directly into the Throttle body with the fly open, you should get at least some kind of cough, belch, attempted start. There is no reason to go look at the fuel system because you are providing your own with the starter fluid. This reduces the variables to compression and spark / timing.

I hope something here was helpful. My guess is that it may be something simple like wrong spark plug routing from wrong cylinder identification. Either that or maybe you forgot to attach all the ground wires.

Stay focused on compression / timing and spark.

The last tip I can give you is pretend you were not the one who installed it. Pretend it was some unknown person who could have made any honest simple mistake and don't take anything for granted.

Good luck and let me know how it goes.

 

thats an excellent video!

 

Thanks! I thought it was worth sharing, given its quality and details...