Rough Idle/ dirty sparkplug
#1
Rough Idle/ dirty sparkplug
97 5.9l
Truck idles roughly after a few minutes. Acts like its going to die, catches itself and revs up, then repeats. It was misfiring going down the road recently as well.
Turned out the spark plug for cylinder 5 was toast as well as the spark plug wire. I replaced it and it no longer misfires going down the road, but still idles roughly. Only that plug looked even dirty the rest were fine.
no engine codes, it was giving p0305 before when it was misfiring going down the road. That went away with new plug.
I replaced evap canister and carbon canister in the hopes bad idle has something to do with that. Opening gas lid/ unhooking evap line under hood seems to have no effect on how it idles down and up.
I notice that my air intake, the plastic that seals over the plenum with a worm clamp- is cracked on the lip that goes over the plenum. Could it be that crack is fouling up the air mixture?
Thanks. Just seems like the misfire and the bad idle are related- could be wrong. Trying to find the source of the issue
Truck idles roughly after a few minutes. Acts like its going to die, catches itself and revs up, then repeats. It was misfiring going down the road recently as well.
Turned out the spark plug for cylinder 5 was toast as well as the spark plug wire. I replaced it and it no longer misfires going down the road, but still idles roughly. Only that plug looked even dirty the rest were fine.
no engine codes, it was giving p0305 before when it was misfiring going down the road. That went away with new plug.
I replaced evap canister and carbon canister in the hopes bad idle has something to do with that. Opening gas lid/ unhooking evap line under hood seems to have no effect on how it idles down and up.
I notice that my air intake, the plastic that seals over the plenum with a worm clamp- is cracked on the lip that goes over the plenum. Could it be that crack is fouling up the air mixture?
Thanks. Just seems like the misfire and the bad idle are related- could be wrong. Trying to find the source of the issue
#3
I probably don't have to replace the entire distributor? I have never replaced anything on the distributor before so bare with me.
Looks like its pretty cheap for the cap and rotor. I don't know much about it- but they sell 'tuning kits' for about the same price. Is that just a better rotor/ spark plug wires? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...une-up+kit,684
#4
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#8
Hello
I had the same problem with my 1995 ram 1500 gas 5.9 and I did all of the sparks plugs and cap rotor and replaced all of the vacuum line and everything worked out very well. But I still have an engine vibration so I am now replacing the harmonic balancer and all of the pulleys as well.
But good luck hopes it works out for you.
I had the same problem with my 1995 ram 1500 gas 5.9 and I did all of the sparks plugs and cap rotor and replaced all of the vacuum line and everything worked out very well. But I still have an engine vibration so I am now replacing the harmonic balancer and all of the pulleys as well.
But good luck hopes it works out for you.
#9
Hello
I had the same problem with my 1995 ram 1500 gas 5.9 and I did all of the sparks plugs and cap rotor and replaced all of the vacuum line and everything worked out very well. But I still have an engine vibration so I am now replacing the harmonic balancer and all of the pulleys as well.
But good luck hopes it works out for you.
I had the same problem with my 1995 ram 1500 gas 5.9 and I did all of the sparks plugs and cap rotor and replaced all of the vacuum line and everything worked out very well. But I still have an engine vibration so I am now replacing the harmonic balancer and all of the pulleys as well.
But good luck hopes it works out for you.
#10
I get mine from Rockauto but never checked with the part stores. My logic is this. If the part is less then $15 more at the parts store I go with them, for the reason HeyYou mentioned. If it's above $15 more I go with RockAuto