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Heat pete!!!

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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 04:27 PM
  #11  
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SATIN are your heater lines the same temp for into and out of the core?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 05:08 PM
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When I change my core this summer I am going to fill the heater core through the inlet hose I believe
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by adukart
I feel for you. I have done all that plus a new heater core. It was -8 here yesterday and my heater was barely enough for me to take my gloves off and I was towing a trailer with full cardboard blocking the radiator. My 99 shelby durango gets really hot but it only has 40k miles. My v10 has 80k miles and the heat barely works with multiple thermostats, this caterpillar thermostat one being the best, a new core and water pump, blend door actuator, and was sure to get the air out. If I ever figure it out I will let everyone know. If you live in the really frigid parts of the continent I feel for you as it barely can keep the window clear enough to see, especially at night. The fact it works so good on max a/c (recirculate) leads me to believe there is an issue allowing or forcing to much outside air into the core and chilling it. The reason I came up with this hypothesis is yesterday on max a/c and the temp set on 50/50 was still warmer than max heat no recirculate. I was wondering if you think this is a possibility.

yeah it’s frustrating man. I appreciate that. I’m about to try a new heater core. It’s cold here hah southern Ontario Canada cold. Gonna try parking ****ing almost vertically. See how that works out. Both hoses out and in the heater core are hot. Thinking air in it. I dono. Could be leaves blocking it. I dono.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 03:11 PM
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Both hoses out and in the heater core are hot.
If the fan is on high and feel weak heat it's possible the blend door coupling. You didn't post vehicle info(year).
https://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
If the fan is on high and feel weak heat it's possible the blend door coupling. You didn't post vehicle info(year).
https://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02


96... yeah I know the blend door is closed I can hear it flopping when I spin the metal piece with Vise grips
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SATIN5.9RAM
96... yeah I know the blend door is closed I can hear it flopping when I spin the metal piece with Vise grips
Sounds like you and me are in almost identical situations. I have the electronic blend and replaced plastic couple with no change where as you have the manual control. It has to be a blend door issue of some kind though with how the heater lines are hot and it will work on recirculate. Hopefully a core works for you, it didn't work for me. As long as you are in there look around for anything broken or missing. Maybe some junk keeping the blend door open.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
When I change my core this summer I am going to fill the heater core through the inlet hose I believe
I've thought thru approaches like this but seems to me even if you could install the core itself 100% full of fluid and then say -- for the sake of argument -- connect it without losing any coolant, if there's air elsewhere in the system it's going to circulate and get trapped in the highest point which seems to be the core.

If true (and it may not be), then I still feel like the system needs to be bled/burped as a whole. However adding a bleeder/burper at or near the highest point does make a degree of sense to me, so perhaps a Prestone flush tee with cap in a heater hose as close to core as possible....

Ever tried to bleed a caliper you installed upside down (this is possible on square body GM's)? You'll never get it if the bleeder is near the bottom of the caliper piston cavity vs top. Not a perfect analogy as hydraulic systems are a bit different than recirculating coolant, but similar concept.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
I've thought thru approaches like this but seems to me even if you could install the core itself 100% full of fluid and then say -- for the sake of argument -- connect it without losing any coolant, if there's air elsewhere in the system it's going to circulate and get trapped in the highest point which seems to be the core.

If true (and it may not be), then I still feel like the system needs to be bled/burped as a whole. However adding a bleeder/burper at or near the highest point does make a degree of sense to me, so perhaps a Prestone flush tee with cap in a heater hose as close to core as possible....

Ever tried to bleed a caliper you installed upside down (this is possible on square body GM's)? You'll never get it if the bleeder is near the bottom of the caliper piston cavity vs top. Not a perfect analogy as hydraulic systems are a bit different than recirculating coolant, but similar concept.
I installed a T in my cooling system. And it seemed to work but I believe I have have a bad thermostat and water pump. It only gets hot hot when the rpms are higher than an idle
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
I installed a T in my cooling system. And it seemed to work but I believe I have have a bad thermostat and water pump. It only gets hot hot when the rpms are higher than an idle
Where is your T installed?

Sounds like you may be low on coolant.....
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Where is your T installed?

Sounds like you may be low on coolant.....
You should remember it from my thread but in the outlet side right after the 90° coolant is full. I think the water pump may be going. But I don't drive it because of that white stuff . So I'll work on it in the summer lol
 
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