Get some plastigage, and see what clearances look like on the front four rod journals.

 

yep. That is the plan. Bearings are on the way and I have extra plastigage from when I rebuilt this motor... 28 miles ago... absolutely unbelievable that I already am doing this. If its not the rod bearings what else could it be do you think? Can't be heard with a stethoscope anywhere but the oil pan. Very very faint. It's a rhythmic noise. Goes up a little with rpm and when the revs start to drop it goes away. Almost like there is no load on the bearings and the noise dissapears.

 

Likely is a bearing, but, without actually laying hands on the truck, can't know for sure. Did you pull the serpentine belt off, and run the engine, see if the noise went away??

 

no but thats a good idea. Pretty sure it won't go away but that's easy enough of a test. It's definitely quiter, almost not even there, when cold. It's not an oil pressure issue though. I'm just assuming that when the oil does thin a little the noise becomes apparent because because of a slightly larger clearance. So I'm really hoping it's as simple as bearing. As bad as that sounds for an engine with only 28 miles and a lot of money...

 

In the future, when priming the oiling system on a Chrysler V8 engine, I prefer to use an oil pump priming tool. This way, you can ensure that oil is circulating throughout the engine. To use the tool, pull out the oil pump drive from under the distributor, insert the tool and use a reversible 1/2" drill to turn the oil pump with the tool (which is nothing more than a long hardened hex shaft designed to turn the oil pump). I usually slowly turn the motor by hand using a 1-1/4" socket and a ratchet. Here is a link to a Chrysler oil pump priming tool - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-901013

 

well here I am back with more questions. I go to change my oil today and I get white milky stuff. Before I freak out, I'm going to assume condensation. The engine has only been run for 100 miles and never very long. Like 15-20 minute trips. Also, it's been cool out here recently. I also don't appear to have lost any coolant as of yet. I do however have a question. I put a brand new 195 thermostat in my truck. Well the truck runs at about 160 or a little higher. It did this with the old engine as well. And that apparently had a 195 in it too. Could it possibly just be the temp sensor is wrong? The only time it got to 210 was when we were releasing the air out-of the cooling system. My fear is the thermostat is reading cold and it's actually running at the right temp, but when it read 210, the engine was actually way hotter and caused an issue... thoughts? I'll be seriously mad if I damaged this engine because of a sensor reading the wrong temp.

 

Can you post a pic of what your oil looked like?

Think I would pick up one of the cheap IR thermo guns, and see what temp the thermostat housing is..... Of course, the gauges in these trucks aren't precisely the picture of accuracy.......

 

well I don'tI have a picture because I was freaking out inside. The oil wasn't a milky brown color. It was normal oil color, and then a small line of white slightly mixed with the normal oil. Yea i need to verify what the temp actually is. I'll just freak if i ran it hot when the temp sensor was telling me it was normal. I guess for now I'm gonna drive it and watch my coolant level. If I did run it hot where would my issue likely be? As long as the block isn't warped or damaged I would be happier. Although the heads are also brand new so I'd hope it's just a head gasget.

 

Do you have an infared temperature gun? (see this for examples - https://www.harborfreight.com/search...perature%20gun) If so, you can point it at the temperature sensor to determine the approximate temperature the engine is running at or use a OBD2 scanner to read the sensor's temperature.

What brand of thermostat did you use? Personally, I only use Stant Superstat thermostats, as they have proven to be the most reliable. Other thermostats, even when brand new, don't tend to be very well made and have a tendency to fail right out of the box.

 

the obd2 also reads around 160 when fully warmed up. I don't remember the brand but it wasn't stant. Which I should have gone with. Never had a issue with their stuff.