Did a battery and alternator test and it said battery was bad. Alt was good. It's a old marine battery I had. It wont hurt to replace it anyway. The check engine gauge can be triggered by a bad battery from what I was told. I figure I will start from there and continue to move forward.

 

The check gauges lite generally won't set a code. You either have a charging system problem, a temp problem, or an oil pressure problem. Of those, only the charging system will set a code, if it is failed long enough.

 

I'm learning a lot through this adventure. I know the code reader I have has a test for both the battery and charging check. The battery is a old marine battery I had and it keeps a charge but must have a issue since the reader says it's bad. Since I have a back up truck, It will have to wait a couple of weeks till next payday to replace it with a new battery. I have been driving it a lot so that a good thing. I drove it today and no check engine light but that doesn't say much since it didn't come up till I did the first hwy run. Temp and Oil pressure has been go so my guess is what you're saying with the charging issue. Once I get the new battery, I will do a quick test and then another hwy run to see if it appears again. Thanks guys.

 

When you put a battery in the truck, I hope you're planning to install a conventional auto battery and not a marine battery. Marine batteries tend to be of the deep cycle variety and don't do particularly well in autos for long periods of time.

 

Yes, It was what I had at the time I started to work on it. Money been tight but I do with what I have. Hopefully by next check I will have enough after bills. The holiday and some short day's didn't help but that's life. lol

 

It seems after a little more distance comes the point where the check gauges light comes on but today I did find out the oil pressure drops to zero but motor sounds fine. This jogged my memory around 10 years ago I went through the same thing. Stop at a light after it been ran somewhat a good distance where the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero, motor sounded fine. I will have to lightly rev up the rpm's and it would bounce back up but if sitting for a few minutes light a stop light it would drop again. During that time I believe I ended up changing both the oil pump ( Reg) and the oil sending or sensor. Can't remember the exact name. I am thinking of doing the same but with a high volume pump; this time. I may even replace the pick up as well. Its a pretty easy job to do. Changing the sensor is in the back and that is a pain but it can be done.

I don't know if this is common for these motors or not but this would be the second time putting in a new oil pump. As far to my knowledge this motor has never burnt oil or had any loss of it either. I figure I will very lightly drive the truck till my next check( 2 weeks), I'm going to replace the battery as well with a new one. I will continue with updates till that gremlin is gone. lol

 

It's not the pump it's a sensor. Common failure with what your are describing

 

I've had to replace the oil pressure sensor a couple of times due to oil leak/electrical failure. Keep an eye on it, as if that sensor leaks oil badly, it could cause a motor failure since the oil leak is under pressure.

 

I will try the sensor first. I just remember going this is the past. I check the oil to make it was full and it was. I haven't seen any sighs of leaking every where I looked. I have heard a bad battery can cause issues. Just in between pay day's so getting what I need isn't going to be tomorrow. lol. I'm also looking at sending the ABS module out and having it rebuilt since it has been showing open circuit on my reader. I heard they stopped selling them in 2017. Someone said that runs about $150. Thanks Guys

 

These folks rebuild ABS modules for selected year trucks - https://modulemaster.com/