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Weird Starting issue

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Old 06-18-2022, 12:13 AM
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Default Weird Starting issue

I'm running this issue on it's thread. I have noticed when starting the truck ( 1999 Ram 1500 5.2 2 wheel drive) that it will act like it's not going to start but then does with a very low rpm then up to normal in seconds. It has a little rough idle but very light. I did a TPS change out of curiosity but it didn't help. I did replace the battery today after code reader battery test said it was bad. The battery it self was 5 years old so it was due. Since I don't have any present codes to go by or to help. I came here hoping that maybe somebody may have gone through the same thing? My concern is that it will lead to just stop starting altogether. I'm not sure where to look next and internet doesn't seem to have anything that relates to my issue. Sometimes it may take a couple of cranks before it starts. It almost like it either starving or giving too much fuel. What is some of your suggestions. Thanks
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 06:16 AM
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If you think it’s fuel test the rail pressure, have you looked down throttle body to check plenum? Try cleaning IAC, when it does run and you give it gas is it normal? Check engine light on?
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 95RAM360
If you think it’s fuel test the rail pressure, have you looked down throttle body to check plenum? Try cleaning IAC, when it does run and you give it gas is it normal? Check engine light on?
I'm going to do a fuel pressure test today. I believe the kit I bought awhile back for something else may work here. Plenum was upgraded a few months with good thick plate and gasket. I remember awhile back ( months ago) I pretty sure I cleaned it but it could be up for replacement. It's just a hard problem to describe since it doesn't trigger a code and it can be a quick start, slow start where it will turn over then start but at a very low rpm then within seconds back to normal rpm. I expect issues to deal with since as we all know having a truck sit for 5+ years is not good on them. I treat the gas about every other tank. Thanks
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 08:44 AM
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A weak battery can cause some issues. If it's still doing it with the new battery definitely check the fuel pressure. Also you should have cleaned out the throttle body of carbon. It can clog the idle circuits. Another thing is your IAC may be on it's way out. Try pressing on the gas some when cranking and see if that helps.
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 02:16 PM
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Also, check your battery connections (positive and negative). Loose/corroded battery cable connections might be causing the issue, too. Check the ground wire connections and ensure that they're tight.
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 06:07 PM
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I just replaced the battery yesterday ( Friday) after work. It not a every time thing. It can start right up with no issue then you go into the store and come out be the opposite. This is why I use the term weird. I also believe when I did the intake work, I did clean the throttle body real good including the sensors. I will check the cables and ground as well. I did a lot of work to this motor so most cables moved or taken off to be back on. I know the fuel working when I turn the key on, I can hear it. It's only a starting issue.
 
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Old 06-25-2022, 03:27 AM
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Well still trying to evict that gremlin. I'm waiting on a new IAC to come in. In the meantime I think I am going to take my old one out and see if another cleaning maybe improves my starting issue. Sometimes it starts right up and sometimes it may take a few times with a very low rpm that quickly returns to normal. Evey-thing seems fine while driving. My concern is that it may just stop starting. I again don't get a check engine lights or codes to go by so it's a guessing game at this point. It has a slight rough idle and rpm is running around 650/700 idling. Don't get paid till next week so I am working on a shoe string budget here. lol. Used the CC to get a lower main dash that I have been searching for months so I need to get that paid off as well. I gave it a full tune up plugs, wires,button and cap. TPS is new. IAC will be soon also. Map sensor isn't cheap so hopefully it wont be that. Check cables and they looked good.

I am going to the Junk Yard ( Yes they don't like being called that anymore) just to see what they have that I can use. I need some interior parts anyway. I did finally order a good used main dash lower part from eBay. ( $750) Just got tired of trying to find a good donor truck. I will have to paint it to the light gray color. Top dash is on back order at LMC. I am making good progress here so far.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:18 AM
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Well after doing some researching it is leaning toward a check valve fuel pump. I mean it could be a leaking injector(s). Either way to do any testing would require me getting a fuel test kit which I found one at Harbor Freight for about $43 bucks or see about a loan a tool program. I'm looking at minimum $150 bucks for a new one. That's local auto store cost. Amazon has them cheaper but most people don't seem to agree with their products. Rock Auto doesn't seem to carry the pump but more replacement parts which really aren't any cheaper. I know don't throw parts at a problem but my guess is from researching would be fuel bleeding back into the tank by the way it's acting. a clogged or stuck fuel injector doesn't just seem to problem from what I have read or any videos I have watched. replacing just the regulator is still going to make me unbolt the bed and lift it so I might as well just replace the whole unit at this point. I am open to suggestions. Right now its at a half tank so I need to get it down if I was to go the route of dropping the tank and cleaning it out but that I'm sure wouldn't be fun to do in a dirt drive way. lol.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 01:09 AM
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You might want to check the fuel pressure via the port on the fuel injector rail to see what the fuel pressure is during start-up when the truck is acting up. You should be able to get the fuel pressure gauge through a tool loaner program that most large auto parts stores have.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:01 AM
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Yeah, I agree also. Been sitting here and found some better videos on replacing the pump and found dropping the tank isn't going to be fun but it's not as bad as I thought either. My guess would be most likely after sitting for 5+ years that it built up some sentiment in the tank that with it driving now has shaken it up and into the pump. It had about a half a tank sitting and I pumped out as much as I could and treated the gas when I added new gas. Let me ask this. If the pressure is fine but drops. how would you know if it's the pump or maybe injectors? Being old school carburetor person, this fuel injection thing honestly is a pain in the butt to me. lol. At least I am learning here. Thanks
 


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