Weird Starting issue
#11
If the pressure is seen to be low at the fuel injector rail port, unless you have a leak of fuel on the injector rail (they are made of pretty thin metal) or the rubber line connecting the fuel rails at the rear of the intake manifold or an O-ring at the top of each injector (all of which fuel leaks are visible by inspection), I would narrow the issue down to a fuel pump assembly going bad.
#12
Test your fuel pressure before replacing the pump.....
If you have long crank times, try cycling the key on, wait, off, on, wait, off, start... See if it fires right off. If it does, that's likely a check valve problem.
Don't cheap out on your fuel pump should you decide to replace it. Denso, or Delphi only please. Unless, of course, you enjoy changing them.....
If you have long crank times, try cycling the key on, wait, off, on, wait, off, start... See if it fires right off. If it does, that's likely a check valve problem.
Don't cheap out on your fuel pump should you decide to replace it. Denso, or Delphi only please. Unless, of course, you enjoy changing them.....
#13
I am going to just get a fuel pressure test kit for future needs if I go through this again. lol. I will try and do a test this Friday but most likely will have to wait till Saturday. I checked and changed O rings back when I did the intake as well cleaned and painted fuel rails. I don't believe it's where my problem is but pressure check should let me know. It's weird because in the morning going to work, it starts right up but after I get to work and do my shift 8 hours is when it often acts up or if I go on short runs like to the store. My guess would be after driving and bouncing around, it's stirs up the tank. I just know if I have to drop the tank, it's going to get a good cleaning and that gas will be for my lawn mower. I am going to pump the tank out since it half full now and getting most of it out will help in dropping it as well I can check the gas as well. I will look into those pumps you suggest as well. Thanks, I will update you guys soon.
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AtomicDog (06-28-2022)
#15
Test your fuel pressure before replacing the pump.....
If you have long crank times, try cycling the key on, wait, off, on, wait, off, start... See if it fires right off. If it does, that's likely a check valve problem.
Don't cheap out on your fuel pump should you decide to replace it. Denso, or Delphi only please. Unless, of course, you enjoy changing them.....
If you have long crank times, try cycling the key on, wait, off, on, wait, off, start... See if it fires right off. If it does, that's likely a check valve problem.
Don't cheap out on your fuel pump should you decide to replace it. Denso, or Delphi only please. Unless, of course, you enjoy changing them.....
#16
The cheaper pumps are of lower quality components/construction. I worked at a shop a while back, and the owner though saving a few bucks by installing the cheaper pumps would be great for his business. Worked great, until the cheap pumps started failing, and we had to replace them for free. AirTex in particular were notorious for premature failure. EVERY one of their pumps we installed, failed within six months. Some didn't even make it a week..... Sure, you pay more for the 'name brand' pumps, but, generally, you replace them ONCE, and they are no longer a problem. Same can't be said for the cheap replacements.
#17
Airtex sucks. Spectra/Precision, too. I'm not convinced Delphi is much better.
Denso OEM's a lot of stuff. Bosch is typically junk these days BUT they do OEM some fuel pumps like in the GMT800s. I would use a Bosch fuel pump if it came that way from the factory.
Carter, I honestly have no idea these days.
Either way inexpensive pumps only make sense if you're flipping the vehicle. If you plan to keep it and need to rely on it, spend more
Denso OEM's a lot of stuff. Bosch is typically junk these days BUT they do OEM some fuel pumps like in the GMT800s. I would use a Bosch fuel pump if it came that way from the factory.
Carter, I honestly have no idea these days.
Either way inexpensive pumps only make sense if you're flipping the vehicle. If you plan to keep it and need to rely on it, spend more
#18
This truck will be going to our daughter so I am going to repair it in the right manner. I was asking more on the reason then cost. Yeah I have a budget but that's more based on month to month on how much i can do during that time. I just got my main lower part of that dash that they no longer make. The only thing left there is the top part and it will look new again. Transmission is doing ok but I already plan on having it rebuilt here in the next few months. Motor still runs great other then the starting issue. After these things are done, then on to replacing driver side seat cushion and replacing the head liner. I will be taking some pictures as progress is being made. Thanks guys for all the help so far.
#19
Ok, I went and bought a fuel pressure tester. Went out and put it on and turned the key on then checked it and turned back off the key and released the pressure then went back in turned the key on again ( Not starting) and the pressure was around 42 psi. It did drop a tad but not much. Then I released the pressure again repeating the process but started the motor and it was bouncing back and fourth about a 1/4 but never settled down. Just kept bouncing like crazy. After the motor warmed up. I shut it off and released the pressure then just turn back on the key ( not starting the motor) this time it was at 45psi and sat there with the key off and it didn't drop any pressure for around 30 minutes. I am still letting it sit with it on seeing if it does in about an hour.
The bouncing around while running makes me question something isn't right since the video I watched from 1A auto his started bounced for a few seconds then leveled out at about 42psi. All he said if it continues to bounce, that means further searching but didn't give any other information to what to search for?
This is just my thoughts at this point.....
Napa has a good OEM pump for around $250+ tax pump. I have to find what size my tank is.
Replace fuel filter while I am doing this.
1A Auto has a set of new injectors that goes by my VIN# for $145. Seeing these have never been changed and it's age. It wouldn't hurt to do them.
This was my late wife truck that will be going to our daughter once I move on so this is a labor of love not for any resale so I would like for it to be in as best condition inside and out. I welcome and listen to your guys views and help. It's very much appreciated. Thanks
The bouncing around while running makes me question something isn't right since the video I watched from 1A auto his started bounced for a few seconds then leveled out at about 42psi. All he said if it continues to bounce, that means further searching but didn't give any other information to what to search for?
This is just my thoughts at this point.....
Napa has a good OEM pump for around $250+ tax pump. I have to find what size my tank is.
Replace fuel filter while I am doing this.
1A Auto has a set of new injectors that goes by my VIN# for $145. Seeing these have never been changed and it's age. It wouldn't hurt to do them.
This was my late wife truck that will be going to our daughter once I move on so this is a labor of love not for any resale so I would like for it to be in as best condition inside and out. I welcome and listen to your guys views and help. It's very much appreciated. Thanks
#20
Fuel filter is part of the pump module, so, change the pump, you change the filter as well.
Injectors? You can change them as 'insurance', but, they are pretty reliable, and last just this side of forever. That said, getting a set of flow matched injectors wouldn't be a bad idea. Might see a bit more power, and fuel mileage going that route.
Injectors? You can change them as 'insurance', but, they are pretty reliable, and last just this side of forever. That said, getting a set of flow matched injectors wouldn't be a bad idea. Might see a bit more power, and fuel mileage going that route.