So bad water pump is prob part of the reason why my heat sucks ? And your correct I think by pass hose is leaking to . They Crack over time the rubber ? Here is a pic of a dribble down side of the block the brown part

 

That looks like the water pump.

Being low on coolant will give you poor heat, but, I have never been really thrilled with the performance of my heater in either of the two trucks I have owned......

 

I always have the rad topped off it leaks very little coolant. Should I just ride it out or change the pump asap before winter ? i feel like the heat can be a tad better lol I initially went in planning to just change my thermostat . But soon as I did the pressure test I discovered the water pump leak

 

i wouldn't worry about the pump leaking. just keep an eye on it and the overflow tank. i have run some pumps with a leaking seal for years sometimes. the longer you wait the more it costs you in coolant.

as far as poor heat goes definitely make sure the controls are working as it should. should likely heat a bit better than that. if you are trying to get better heat could switch to electric cooling fans. i personally like running 180*F thermostat with electric fans. with electric fans you can have them kick on at 210-220 in the winter and lower in the summer. i used to be able to get my trucks hotter inside with electric fans than i ever did with a mechanical fan.

 

I think I screwed up and over pressurized the system and forced the coolant to come out the weep hole.... I went 1 psi past max pressure on the rad cap. I'm such a idiot for listening to you tubers. I think im gonna change the thermostat and run the motor and watch for leaks again in the meantime .

 

i don't think 1 psi over what is on the cap would make that much difference. i could be wrong but pretty sure that pressure is what pressure the system vent coolant into the reservoir. i would guess the system likely sees pressures that high regularly.

i would not recommend a 205*F thermostat. i would stick to the stock temp or cooler. you should probably be getting hotter air out of the heater than you are.

 

I've had pumps run for years seeping and I've had the shaft come out in short order. I'm a fuss budget with bad parts. You never know when they're going to fail altogether. Think of it this way, would you rather replace the pump in your driveway when its 70 or 80 degrees F? Or would you rather do it when it's 7 or 8 degrees F? One PSI shouldn't make your seal weep. I'm wondering if maybe your impellers inside are worn. That will still cool the engine but not much flow to the heater core.

 

It's not something you want to gamble with because you know it will get "bad" in January when it's 10* out. If you can do it now in nice weather do it.

 

lol for my vehicles it was not big deal. you should have seen the wobble on the 1 i replace a couple years ago. the bearing was completely wore out but you didn't see the wobble with it on the car because of belt tension but with it off the vehicle you could see how bad it it was. it was only a $50 water pump which was cheaper than the coolant it kept using at that point and only a 30 minute job.

 

I once had a bad water pump on a V-8 Chevy van. I could hear the bearing roar and knew it needed changing. Decided to take a short 200 mile round trip trip with it, thinking I could get away with it. The water pump let go about 15 miles from my home on the highway. The fan, pulley and the water pump shaft and bearing came flying forward into the radiator. The van ended up having to be towed back home. I had to replace the water pump, pulley and radiator. I learned from that experience to never neglect a bad water pump.