I searched for a bit so I’m sorry if I missed it.

The u joint on my driver side axle broke and spit its guts on the road. Made a couple clunks and seems to drive okish if I go slow.

I have a couple questions:

IF the seal doesn’t puke all the axle fluid out, is it drivable until then? I’m currently hundreds of miles from home with no tools. My presumption is it is drivable until the axle loses its oil then it probably locks the wheel/wheels.

I may try to have a shop repair it. How many hours are they likely to charge me?

Thank you so much for any help. You are greatly appreciated.

 

Driving it like that is dangerous. There is nothing holding the inner axle in. If it manages to escape, and gets tied up in the outer, things are gonna go BOOM! And you will instantly lose control of the truck. At any kind of speed, that would be FAR more excitement than I would like. Gonna have to bite the bullet, and pay someone to fix it, if you want to make it home safe.

 

damn. Are you sure it’s that bad?

 

Yes! That's a bad condition where the front axle can flop around.

 

If the two yokes interlock just right you can lose steering, or full range of steering.

You can pull the inner shaft and put it back together. Stuff a rag in the left side if it makes you feel better.

edit: ya gotta leave the stub shaft in there as it keeps the wb together

 

Where is far from home? Maybe a member nearby can help?

Also nothing is going to lock the wheels provided you're in 2hi and your CAD is not engaged.

I have no idea what book time is but I'd guess you're looking at $350-$500 at today's rates. Unfortunately most shops will just source greaseable junk from whoever has it. I'd insist on a solid Spicer (5-760X) or Neapco

If you come from the rust belt expect to pay for a set of Dorman wheel bearing bolts. If the shop says your wheel bearing has play NOW is the time to change it, but they'll mark the part up handsomely. Good chance they'll also find brake problems or ball joint problems. The former can wait, the latter *would* be nice to do but that will REALLY elevate the bill.

Also if your u-joint fragged a yoke when it let go you're looking for JY parts or waiting for new parts $$

 

Try to find a 4wd shop they see broken u-joints more often and might be able to get you back on the road. As already mentioned, pulling the axle shaft and stuffing something in the seal area is a common trail fix.

 

Just rig up something so the axle can’t slide out, like small block of wood and ratchet strap, just so it won’t go into brakes/wheel possibly…then LIMP it to when you can safely get it.

 

Unless both yoke ears are 100% gone on either the inner shaft or stub shaft that won't work. The stub MUST spin with the wheel and in turn the ears will hit the ears of the inner axle and force it to spin.

It's the (potential) close, unnatural proximity of the ears that can cause steering to bind