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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Hey everyone. At a previous post I made I spoke about trying to get better heat in my truck. I recently did the thermostat and it helped alot. I discovered my water pump leaks and I also had a oil leak forever around the timing cover area. I'm taking on the job of re doing the seals and water pump while the weather is nice. I've never done bigger jobs like this and only want to do it once. What is the best way to apply the gasket and what is the best rtv to use and in what areas ? Thanks alot of the help.
Hey everyone. At a previous post I made I spoke about trying to get better heat in my truck. I recently did the thermostat and it helped alot. I discovered my water pump leaks and I also had a oil leak forever around the timing cover area. I'm taking on the job of re doing the seals and water pump while the weather is nice. I've never done bigger jobs like this and only want to do it once. What is the best way to apply the gasket and what is the best rtv to use and in what areas ? Thanks alot of the help.
I usually use RTV Black. There is also a grey RTV gasket maker for thermostats and water pumps. It's a slightly thinner gasket as it goes on so a slight warp will seal. Black will work too, just make sure it's compatible with oil, gasoline and water. Now, keep in mind several of those bolts go into the cooling passages. You MUST use sealant on those. The bolts at top that are open, don't need it. The really long ones on the sides you do. Otherwise you'll have a leak that's really difficult to track down.
Put a little oil on the shaft of the balancer when you install it. Work it in easy so it slides in and you don't tear the rubber seal. Did you put a little oil on the hole in the center of the crank seal when you put it in? Did you remove the timing cover? Sometimes those get a little leak, especially down around the bottom. Being a fairly fresh engine, it shouldn't leak, but you never know.
One thing you don't want to use the gasket shellac. Back before RTV sealants, that was what you needed to use. It's also murder to clean off when you service the engine. I still see it on the shelf, but I don't have, nor will I use it.
Last edited by ol' grouch; Aug 18, 2022 at 10:07 PM.
Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn
I usually use RTV Black. There is also a grey RTV gasket maker for thermostats and water pumps. It's a slightly thinner gasket as it goes on so a slight warp will seal. Black will work too, just make sure it's compatible with oil, gasoline and water. Now, keep in mind several of those bolts go into the cooling passages. You MUST use sealant on those. The bolts at top that are open, don't need it. The really long ones on the sides you do. Otherwise you'll have a leak that's really difficult to track down.
Put a little oil on the shaft of the balancer when you install it. Work it in easy so it slides in and you don't tear the rubber seal. Did you put a little oil on the hole in the center of the crank seal when you put it in? Did you remove the timing cover? Sometimes those get a little leak, especially down around the bottom. Being a fairly fresh engine, it shouldn't leak, but you never know.
One thing you don't want to use the gasket shellac. Back before RTV sealants, that was what you needed to use. It's also murder to clean off when you service the engine. I still see it on the shelf, but I don't have, nor will I use it.
I have not cleaned off anything yet just have everything un bolted. Is it OK to put a film of rtv around the whole perimeter of the cover then install the gasket ? Do I need a special tool to install the new balancer ?
I usually use RTV Black. There is also a grey RTV gasket maker for thermostats and water pumps. It's a slightly thinner gasket as it goes on so a slight warp will seal. Black will work too, just make sure it's compatible with oil, gasoline and water. Now, keep in mind several of those bolts go into the cooling passages. You MUST use sealant on those. The bolts at top that are open, don't need it. The really long ones on the sides you do. Otherwise you'll have a leak that's really difficult to track down.
Put a little oil on the shaft of the balancer when you install it. Work it in easy so it slides in and you don't tear the rubber seal. Did you put a little oil on the hole in the center of the crank seal when you put it in? Did you remove the timing cover? Sometimes those get a little leak, especially down around the bottom. Being a fairly fresh engine, it shouldn't leak, but you never know.
One thing you don't want to use the gasket shellac. Back before RTV sealants, that was what you needed to use. It's also murder to clean off when you service the engine. I still see it on the shelf, but I don't have, nor will I use it.
When you mean sealant on the bolts do you just mean thread sealant? Or gasket maker
I have not cleaned off anything yet just have everything un bolted. Is it OK to put a film of rtv around the whole perimeter of the cover then install the gasket ? Do I need a special tool to install the new balancer ?
Clean the cover really well. I mean REALLY well. Then I would use a thing film of sealant on the cover, then a couple of bolts to hold it in place (so it doesn't slide around) and then another thin film on the gasket where it will meet the block.You don't really NEED a lot of gasket maker. The only place you'll want a large dollop is on the corners of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan.
On the balancer, I've used an impact wrench in the past to run the balancer in with the bolt. Just make sure you get the balancer started into the seal so it doesn't rip it. There is a balancer tool you can rent from AutoZone, O'Reilly's and so on.
On the bolts, I used to use Form-A-Gasket #2 for years. Now I just put some RTV on the threads. Let it sit for 24 hours before you add coolant but I'd done many timing chains like that and never had a leak.
Clean the cover really well. I mean REALLY well. Then I would use a thing film of sealant on the cover, then a couple of bolts to hold it in place (so it doesn't slide around) and then another thin film on the gasket where it will meet the block.You don't really NEED a lot of gasket maker. The only place you'll want a large dollop is on the corners of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan.
On the balancer, I've used an impact wrench in the past to run the balancer in with the bolt. Just make sure you get the balancer started into the seal so it doesn't rip it. There is a balancer tool you can rent from AutoZone, O'Reilly's and so on.
On the bolts, I used to use Form-A-Gasket #2 for years. Now I just put some RTV on the threads. Let it sit for 24 hours before you add coolant but I'd done many timing chains like that and never had a leak.
Awesome man thank you. I saw a good tip on tube that a guy can mount the water pump with couple bolts onto the cover before you install it. I really need to find the torque specs for everything. I will be buying a new balancer and planned on just using the impact to install it ill make sure there is lots of oil on the inside of the crank seal. Do you use a bit of permatex around the outside ring of the the crank seal when installing it into the cover ?
Clean the cover really well. I mean REALLY well. Then I would use a thing film of sealant on the cover, then a couple of bolts to hold it in place (so it doesn't slide around) and then another thin film on the gasket where it will meet the block.You don't really NEED a lot of gasket maker. The only place you'll want a large dollop is on the corners of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan.
On the balancer, I've used an impact wrench in the past to run the balancer in with the bolt. Just make sure you get the balancer started into the seal so it doesn't rip it. There is a balancer tool you can rent from AutoZone, O'Reilly's and so on.
On the bolts, I used to use Form-A-Gasket #2 for years. Now I just put some RTV on the threads. Let it sit for 24 hours before you add coolant but I'd done many timing chains like that and never had a leak.
How do you know that the balancer is being put on centered ? I know there is a keyway on it but is this why its good to have some oil on the seal so I can move around to where it wants to sit naturally? Another video I watched a guy said don't tighten all the timing cover bolts until the balancer is on. Makes sense ?
Put a thin film of rtv on both sides of the gasket then put the water pump on. If i recall there are two bolts that you should put rtv on(upper right side). When you remove the bolts you should put them in the new pump so you know what bolt goes where because they are different lengths. I only use ulta copper, In my opinion it's the best out there. https://www.permatex.com/products/or...lue-rtv-3-5oz/
Do you use a bit of permatex around the outside ring of the the crank seal when installing it into the cover ?
Depending on who makes the seal it may or may not have a dry sealant on it. I usually put a thin amount around the perimeter of the seal when installing it just to be sure it doesn't leak.
How do you know that the balancer is being put on centered ? I know there is a keyway on it but is this why its good to have some oil on the seal so I can move around to where it wants to sit naturally? Another video I watched a guy said don't tighten all the timing cover bolts until the balancer is on. Makes sense ?
You want the timing cover in place before you install the pump or balancer. Getting to the lower bolts on the cover is possible, but difficult with the balancer in place. As for sealant on the crank seal, it usually will seal pretty well, especially on good quality gasket sets but a thin film won't hurt. The key way on the crank and balancer do need to be lined up. A light oil film on the crankshaft will help it slide on. It really can't go on crooked.
For the pump, a couple of bolts to hold the gasket and pump in place makes it a lot easier. Don't press the pump against the cover until you can all he bolts started. If you tighten it with some bolts out, the gasket might shift and all the bolts may not go in. Get them all started, snug them down lightly then do your final torque.
Put the balancer on last before you reassemble the pulleys and belts.
One last thing before you bolt everything together, with the engine being fairy fresh, it shouldn't be a problem, but clean the threads on all the bolts. This makes sealing and torquing much easier and more effective.
Put a thin film of rtv on both sides of the gasket then put the water pump on. If i recall there are two bolts that you should put rtv on(upper right side). When you remove the bolts you should put them in the new pump so you know what bolt goes where because they are different lengths. I only use ulta copper, In my opinion it's the best out there. https://www.permatex.com/products/or...lue-rtv-3-5oz/
Depending on who makes the seal it may or may not have a dry sealant on it. I usually put a thin amount around the perimeter of the seal when installing it just to be sure it doesn't leak.
You use copper everywhere like on the covers and engine side or just the bolts?
Best procedure for installing gaskets.
