On board air
There isn't as much room under the hood of a Jeep also which would be one big reason why the brackets were designed the way they were. And that idler isn't really way up high. It doesn't sit any higher than the air hat .
It's barely higher than the top of the York.
I don't recall ever hearing of output changing with angle but there were arguments it didn't lube itself as well at severe angles. I never had a problem. My buddy crammed one in his XJ and it's horizontal (shrug).
The word "tip" apparently confused some. You of course wouldn't have to tip it very far at all to tension a belt if other simple factors changed like belt length and turnbuckle length.
With just a tiny bit of engineering you should also be able to just come up with a simple "pry bar" system, ie pry the compressor until belt is snug and then tighten a thru-bolt. Heck, even my '88 Ranger with 2.3 used this to tighten the primary belt and it was serpentine......Step 1: pry alternator Step 2: tighten bolt
The word "tip" apparently confused some. You of course wouldn't have to tip it very far at all to tension a belt if other simple factors changed like belt length and turnbuckle length.
With just a tiny bit of engineering you should also be able to just come up with a simple "pry bar" system, ie pry the compressor until belt is snug and then tighten a thru-bolt. Heck, even my '88 Ranger with 2.3 used this to tighten the primary belt and it was serpentine......Step 1: pry alternator Step 2: tighten bolt
I don't recall ever hearing of output changing with angle but there were arguments it didn't lube itself as well at severe angles. I never had a problem. My buddy crammed one in his XJ and it's horizontal (shrug).
The word "tip" apparently confused some. You of course wouldn't have to tip it very far at all to tension a belt if other simple factors changed like belt length and turnbuckle length.
With just a tiny bit of engineering you should also be able to just come up with a simple "pry bar" system, ie pry the compressor until belt is snug and then tighten a thru-bolt. Heck, even my '88 Ranger with 2.3 used this to tighten the primary belt and it was serpentine......Step 1: pry alternator Step 2: tighten bolt
The word "tip" apparently confused some. You of course wouldn't have to tip it very far at all to tension a belt if other simple factors changed like belt length and turnbuckle length.
With just a tiny bit of engineering you should also be able to just come up with a simple "pry bar" system, ie pry the compressor until belt is snug and then tighten a thru-bolt. Heck, even my '88 Ranger with 2.3 used this to tighten the primary belt and it was serpentine......Step 1: pry alternator Step 2: tighten bolt
If anyone wants I can take better pictures of my brackets. There was a thread on one of the off-road forums where someone had devised their own brackets for our engines. I'll look and see if I can find it. I've had OBA on all my 4wheeling rings now for over 20 years and have used a York each time just because of the output compared to other units.
Hey guys. Maybe you didn't see this link above. I'd try this guy. I have a new set of these in the box I haven't had time for yet. They are a bit spendy but you gotta pay the guy for the metal and his time. They are very beefy and nicely made. It seems well worth it to me. https://www.ramchargercentral.com/th...-v6-v8.321394/










