Tightening up my front end, no matter what I replace my steering is sloppy from my steering wheel all the way thru on my 98 1500 4x4 5.9 extended cab short bed. It's got the factory 3 inch lift I believe just the factory blocks in the back.the front shocks sit closed not like my 94 with the lift that are opened right up to give it height. I got mud claws on it so I thought it could be the wheel bearings I've done those on both sides as well as the axle shafts because they're was noticable grinding rings all around the passenger shaft where the shaft knuckle meets the steering knuckle. I was told by the dodge tech at the dealership parts place they fought this with their 98 and finally modified a drag link from a 3500 or 4500 and now it don't do it. It's not just the wonder while it's driving I can move.my.wheel and have no response to the Pittman arm for the first few inches then when it does move everything else takes its time to catch up and it don't retract quick enough to steer good at all. So I suspect my gear box needs a rebuilt I'm gonna order the rebuild kit and do that, I have to look at my gear box up to the wheel and see how that looks but when I turn my wheel the shaft going into the gear box turns with it without any skip or delay. So I think my problem is in the gear box itself and forward. My question also is should I get 2500 or 3500 drag links tie rods and what not and how much modifications would I have to do to use those. If I get all 2500 parts would they fit in or would I still have to modify it, I didn't know if I wasn't mixing up 2500 and 1500 parts and just went with all 2500 drag links and tie rods and pitman end and what not of it wouldn't need modifications as the brackets look the same on my buddy's 2500 98 he's got the same exact model and Year in a 5.9 just a 2500 and he don't have this problem. His steering is tight and don't wonder

 

Before you tear up the steering box, get someone to crank the steering wheel back and forth, and crawl under the front end to see where the actual slack is. Take a really close look to the panhard bar frame end, as those wear out and create situation you described.
Also check all the tie rod ends, little play here and there creates lot of movement on the steering wheel.

As for the steering parts, it's common to go from factory Y-steering to T-steering to get more responsive steering feel. Difference between those two is how the drag link and tie rod connect to each other. Not sure about the 1500 as which year parts are needed.

 

I had similar issues after I purchased my '96 Ram 2500 4x4 several years ago, but I also encountered "death wobble" while driving on the highway one day. Since the front end looked like nothing had been done at all to it and I planned to keep the truck for quite a long time, I decided to go ahead and rebuild the entire front suspension. I replaced everything (wheel bearings, U-joints at the wheels, poly sway bar links & sway bar mounts, tie rods, ball joints, shocks, adjustable 3rd gen style track bar & bracket, Borgeson steering box & shaft, new 33" tires, leaky front axle seal, etc.). The truck handles and drives much better now and no more death wobble.

 

It sounds like your steering gear is worn out. However, before you replace it, make sure it IS worn out. Pop the hood and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth. Look for play on the rag joint. This is the flexible connector between the steering shaft and the gear box. If it's good and snug, keep rotating slightly and watch the pitman arm on the box. Is it moving properly or is the steering gear assembly flexing on the frame. I've never needed the brace on my truck, but I've known guys who run a lot off road that it tightened the steering. The panhard rod on my truck was replaced before I got it and I thought it was going out again. That will cause death wobble for sure. It's the same part # for 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks.

I went through my front end and the drivers upper ball joint had 2 inches of play. I replaced both tie rod ends, wheel bearings, all 4 ball joints, drive axle U-joints, all 4 ball joints and it drives straight and true. I had an issue with it pulling to the left, but a new right side flex hose took care of that. The clue was a light coating of rust on the R.F. rotor. The only FE parts that were on it when I got it are the sway bar end links and the steering damper.

 

Is the rag joint your referring to the little u joint looking peice just before the shaft goes into the steering box? Because I've checked it and there is a little bit of play but mainly the wheel and shaft turns together pretty tight it's on the other end of the gear box that I'm not getting response until I rock it side to side. And then it moves evenly it just seems the lag in response is inside the gear box honestly

 

Yeah, that's pretty normal for a high mileage truck. You could try adjusting the existing box, before opting for replacement..... Keep in mind, there are TWO adjustments that need to be done, and it is MUCH easier doing it off the truck. Procedures for that are in the service manual.

 

And don't ever adjust it in the middle, always towards the end of the lock. If you tighten it up in the middle(that's where all the wear is) the gears will bind when you turn it lock to lock. Replacing box may not solve this because they used the same worn parts to rebuild them.

 

Actually, the tolerances (new from the factory) are tighter over center.... adjusting the box at one of the locks has the real potential to have the over center TOO tight, and the truck will want to go anywhere BUT straight. Yep, that is the voice of experience.

 

I was referring to a used(worn) one. Are the factory ones still available?

 

Not really. Maybe if you get REAL lucky.

That said, most of the wear happens on the shaft the ***** recirculate on. The gear surfaces, sure, some, but, you really do wanna tighten them over center, to avoid rude surprises.