The fella I bought the truck off of smoked the tranny under warranty. I know now why he did, he didn't know how to use the tow button on hills when the tranny will kick out of OD. The torque converter isn't locked up and if you are pulling a long hill like in the mountains the tranny will overheat when pulling on the HWY in 3rd. It will push the dipstick out and puke a bunch of fluid, I'm sure this is what has happened with diesels that have caught on fire. You hit the tow mode the tranny will drop to 3rd and lock the torque converter and it won't shift down to 2nd until you get below 45 mph with the throttle to the metal.

When I was working I was working on heavy construction, a crew of 2 were blowing dust out of the paving slab working up hill, going slow and stopping and not shifting the tranny into neutral the the tranny overheated and puked, this was on a ford F250. With my company F350 had a 351 (don't remember the liters), It was a pig in the summer, it wouldn't pull hills on the HWY without shifting down and all I could do was slam the throttle. Well, after several years and a very hot day, I pulled a long hill and it puked. I don't think this truck had a tow mode and if it did I never used it. Didn't catch fire but the engine was going south and I got a new engine. That poor engine got it's guts pulled out from the weight of the truck with all the tools and two in bed fuel tanks that held like 50 gallons each. It wasn't long after the company bought me a new F350 with a 6.0 diesel with a big turbo. The turbo lag was something else. I soon learned don't try to shoot the gap from a stop because the turbo wouldn't add any HP until 1500 RPMs, until then it was a pig. That truck was my first experience with a turbo.

Then all the other foremen/supers who had the same engine trashed their turbos. I know what the problem was, they would run like hell on the HWY and get to where they were going and shut off the engine without cooling down the turbo. I would think all turbo engines should come from the factory with a pyrometer.

 

After installing a lift kit in my ram 1500 my driving experience really enhaned. If you also want best lift kit for your ram read this article. Link Removed.

 

If you want to advertise your site, become a sponsor. Otherwise, that's a no-no.

 

I would never install a lift kit on my truck

 

Mine is already too tall for my wife... She has a difficult time getting in. If I lifted it a few inches, she wouldn't be able to. As it sits, I could put 35's on it, with no clearance issues....

 

The fuel rail pressure test port will accommodate a 1/4 tube flare fitting. Use it also for testing fuel pressure. Remove the valve stem with ordinary bike tube tool and rig up a reverse flush.Will be limited because of crossover.
The original fuel pumps, at least my '95 had a paper element type of filter. Haven't seen recently, now only 'strainers'. Still effective. You seemed concerned about injectors failing/plugging.
Filter screen inside top of injector is removable. Clean it. Would be sized to not allow any particle big enough to plug injector through. Injector can be reverse flushed with simple pressurized alcohol setup, more than one way to do it seems. Pressurize a reservoir, trigger the solenoid. ASD relay supplies 12v same as coil packs, as I recall.
I built a rig to pressurize an entire fuel rail to check for a leaking injector, which I did have. So I know it's possible.
Dr. Injector in Sacramento will clean, repair, flow test your injectors. Was maybe 15USD ea. when I did mine several years ago.

 

Thanks for the information, I bookmarked Dr. Injector. Is there a video on how to remove the screen on these injectors? I don't start anything unless I know what I'm doing from start to finish beforehand.

 

The engine has enough torque to pull through the clutches on the torque converter. The clutches slip, transmission overheats. Part of the reason for those high dollar billet converters with upgraded clutches. Heat and pressure can warp the converter housing, makes the problem worse.

 

I have thought the bullet converters and have a couple saved on eBay when the tranny gives up the ghost. I haven't noticed any shutter from the torque converter but when I do it will be rebuilding time with upgrades in it all. So far the torque converter clutch hasn't slipped, and the transmission stays happy at 160 degrees with the peddle to the metal when pulling hills with the travel trailer in D with the torque converter locked. The only time the tranny will heat up is with the torque converter unlocked.

 

It has been a while, now an update.

I sold my travel trailer.

I finally figured out when the rear drum shoes need adjustment. When applying the brakes, the pickup will pull to the right. I had always thought it was the front calipers, one or the other was sticking or something. Some time after the rear shoes were adjusted, a lightbulb lit up in my head. They both needed to be adjusted but the left side needed a lot more, yep, when the brakes were applied, the pickup would pull to the right, after adjusting the shoes, no more pulling one way or the other. It looks like this will need to be done yearly in the spring or when it starts pulling one way or the other.

After a ton of research and installing a new bullet torque converter, I finally figured out why the torque converter took a lot more time to lock up above 45 mph. It was the lockup boost valve, located in the valve body, the port had a lot of wear leaking off pressure, until the speed got up to a higher speed. I ended up buying a rebuilt valve body that had the valve port machined larger for the larger valve, and a transgo kit installed.