When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
10. Replace Checkballs a. Install the 3/16" checkball as shown (Figure 9). b. On other side of the channel plate, install two 1/4" checkballs as shown (Figure 10). c. Install six 1/4" checkballs and one 11/32" checkball in the lower valve body locations (Figure 11). NOTE: Forward clutch failure will occur if the ball seat for the TV ball in the spacer plate leaks
As for the 3 shims, I used 1 and I get some firm shifts nothing to snap the head back. It is good for everyday driving. If your young put 3 in.
Last edited by PR1AWRet; Apr 11, 2023 at 12:36 PM.
Ok, so things seem to be getting better.
I don’t want to delete the converter drain back valve/ check valve but would it affect driving if dirty or clogged. Truck sat for awhile.
I know what it does when it sits but does it do anything when driving.
is it worth it to put a new one on? Aside from the money portion
Actually, you are better off without it. It tends to clog, and restrict flow to the trans cooler. Shortly thereafter, your trans burns up. NOT having it will delay engagement a few seconds after the truck sits for several hours. If you also do the mod that allows the torque converter to charge in Park, you won't even notice the delay.
Actually, you are better off without it. It tends to clog, and restrict flow to the trans cooler. Shortly thereafter, your trans burns up. NOT having it will delay engagement a few seconds after the truck sits for several hours. If you also do the mod that allows the torque converter to charge in Park, you won't even notice the delay.
And you can check your transmission fluid in park. When I rebuilt mine I deleted it.
Actually, you are better off without it. It tends to clog, and restrict flow to the trans cooler. Shortly thereafter, your trans burns up. NOT having it will delay engagement a few seconds after the truck sits for several hours. If you also do the mod that allows the torque converter to charge in Park, you won't even notice the delay.
Hi, I was going to start a new thread on this but since you referenced the trans check valve I had a question about it after reading this thread-
I want to take the simplest option and drill out the check ball and blow out the hose with air. I have a quick disconnect tool from Harbor Freight and hope that will do the job, however I'm concerned about the rust in the photo where the hose is connected to the radiator. Someone in the older thread said they broke it off when attempting to disconnect. Any tips on how to prevent this from happening or should I just have a replacement ready in case it breaks off?