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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Unfortunately being a '94 you have half a chance of having a Chrysler rear end. Not sure what finding 4.10 for it would be like.
Upgrading the axles to matching 4.10 Danas is a BIG job. Rear leafs arent the same size as later years so need to either settle for the size you have and try to find blocks that fit both ends or cut the hangers off and replace with full size. There's also a couple years i think you cant use because they dont have differential speed sensor. If you go from Chrysler to Dana you will also need your driveshaft shortened by about 1.5"
Front diff is mostly bolt on but the track bar isnt so either settle or ream the trackbar pin socket out to fit the larger new ones.
The ONLY advantage to a 94/95 is the lack of computerization. We can run our trucks from a bowl of gas on the roof. Lol
Just to clarify, I wasn't advocating swapping the entire front & rear axles, although that is an option if you can find suitable complete donor axles at a reasonable price. You will need to determine which axles you have (your build sheet should tell you which axles are in your truck). Since you have 4x4, at a minimum, you must change the gears (the ring & pinions) in both the front & rear axles, so that the 4x4 will work properly when engaged (the gear ratios in the front and rear axles must match on a 4x4). Any 2nd gen Dana 60 rear (if that's what you have) should work, as the speed sensor from your year will fit in later year trucks/axles. Typically, the only change to the speed sensor was the electrical connector. Since Dana 60s are pretty rugged axles, I purchased used 4.10 ring and pinions off eBay. Ford, Chevy or Dodge Dana 60 ring and pinions work, as long as they aren't the high pinion style gears used in some Fords..
As for lack of computerization on '94/'95 trucks, they still use a PCM/computer. It was OBD1 and can be accessed by the appropriate scanner and adapter plug.
Being a 2500 with gas engine, his truck will have D60's front and rear. Unless its a Light Duty 2500..... Check the GVWR on the sticker in the door. 7500lbs is LD, 8800lbs is HD. and, it MATTERS. Light duty trucks still had D44 in front, and corporate 9.25 out back. But, they were still eight lug.
Just to clarify, I wasn't advocating swapping the entire front & rear axles, although that is an option if you can find suitable complete donor axles at a reasonable price. You will need to determine which axles you have (your build sheet should tell you which axles are in your truck). Since you have 4x4, at a minimum, you must change the gears (the ring & pinions) in both the front & rear axles, so that the 4x4 will work properly when engaged (the gear ratios in the front and rear axles must match on a 4x4). Any 2nd gen Dana 60 rear (if that's what you have) should work, as the speed sensor from your year will fit in later year trucks/axles. Typically, the only change to the speed sensor was the electrical connector. Since Dana 60s are pretty rugged axles, I purchased used 4.10 ring and pinions off eBay. Ford, Chevy or Dodge Dana 60 ring and pinions work, as long as they aren't the high pinion style gears used in some Fords..
As for lack of computerization on '94/'95 trucks, they still use a PCM/computer. It was OBD1 and can be accessed by the appropriate scanner and adapter plug.
yea but you cant put Dana guts in a Chrysler rear end.
They have a basic ecm but the system is pretty different. OBDII is just more sensitive by nature.
Unfortunately being a '94 you have half a chance of having a Chrysler rear end. Not sure what finding 4.10 for it would be like.
Upgrading the axles to matching 4.10 Danas is a BIG job. Rear leafs arent the same size as later years so need to either settle for the size you have and try to find blocks that fit both ends or cut the hangers off and replace with full size. There's also a couple years i think you cant use because they dont have differential speed sensor. If you go from Chrysler to Dana you will also need your driveshaft shortened by about 1.5"
Front diff is mostly bolt on but the track bar isnt so either settle or ream the trackbar pin socket out to fit the larger new ones.
The ONLY advantage to a 94/95 is the lack of computerization. We can run our trucks from a bowl of gas on the roof. Lol
Thankfully I have 2 Dana 60s.
Originally Posted by AtomicDog
Just to clarify, I wasn't advocating swapping the entire front & rear axles, although that is an option if you can find suitable complete donor axles at a reasonable price. You will need to determine which axles you have (your build sheet should tell you which axles are in your truck). Since you have 4x4, at a minimum, you must change the gears (the ring & pinions) in both the front & rear axles, so that the 4x4 will work properly when engaged (the gear ratios in the front and rear axles must match on a 4x4). Any 2nd gen Dana 60 rear (if that's what you have) should work, as the speed sensor from your year will fit in later year trucks/axles. Typically, the only change to the speed sensor was the electrical connector. Since Dana 60s are pretty rugged axles, I purchased used 4.10 ring and pinions off eBay. Ford, Chevy or Dodge Dana 60 ring and pinions work, as long as they aren't the high pinion style gears used in some Fords..
As for lack of computerization on '94/'95 trucks, they still use a PCM/computer. It was OBD1 and can be accessed by the appropriate scanner and adapter plug.
I didn't think about getting used parts. How big of a job is it to swap ring and pinion? I've never done it before... Talking about obd1, are there any tuners that will work for my truck?
Originally Posted by HeyYou
Being a 2500 with gas engine, his truck will have D60's front and rear. Unless its a Light Duty 2500..... Check the GVWR on the sticker in the door. 7500lbs is LD, 8800lbs is HD. and, it MATTERS. Light duty trucks still had D44 in front, and corporate 9.25 out back. But, they were still eight lug.
Yep, 8800 lbs.
Originally Posted by MtnTow
Regardless of what the truck was built with, look at your back wheel. If the hub has a bunch of bolts going around it, it's most likely the Dana.
This is the Chrysler rear end. The hub has no bolts.
i just wanted to add a note. The best "power mod" i did was .... all my.ujoints and bearings. You'll be amazed how much they bog a truck down.
Because of how the ecm controls fuel pulse, my understanding is tuners dont do much unless you start putting engine components in like cams and etc.
i could be wrong there. I have seen a few units for our old trucks but no clue about them.
There are no tuners for OBDI trucks. (94-95) OBDI is not flash programmable, like the 96 and up OBDII computers are. The 'piggyback' chips cause more problems than they are worth.... and I am not sure they are even available for our trucks.... You can, however, convert to OBDII.... Just need the PCM, and wiring harness from a 96 or 97 truck with the same engine/trans. (although, in 96, the RH trans was replaced by the RE.... so, likely need to change that too.) Not cheap, but, adds the ability to program your PCM with a tuner.
No, but the old Mopar Performance upgraded ECMs are still floating around sometimes on EBay. Not sure what they do, not much more than more spark sooner maybe.
No idea on a '94-'95 V-8 part number, it's out there. I bought the last NOS Mopar ECM that SummitRacing had for the V-10. Dirt cheap on closeout. Nice upgrade.
Hughes Engines bores out the small Magnum TBs. No idea how they compare to the Fastman if still available. I asked them to bore one of my V-10 units out, something they had never done. Result pic is on their website.
There are no tuners for OBDI trucks. (94-95) OBDI is not flash programmable, like the 96 and up OBDII computers are. The 'piggyback' chips cause more problems than they are worth.... and I am not sure they are even available for our trucks.... You can, however, convert to OBDII.... Just need the PCM, and wiring harness from a 96 or 97 truck with the same engine/trans. (although, in 96, the RH trans was replaced by the RE.... so, likely need to change that too.) Not cheap, but, adds the ability to program your PCM with a tuner.
Hmmm, wonder it it's worth it?
I didn't have time to change the thermostat today, but I did get to pull the air filter housing off. I was surprised at how dirty my throttle body was! Should I take it off to clean it? Or clean it in place? Is the stock throttle body made by Holley? Also, ip noticed that the sensor that plugs into the TB on the right side is a Holley part. Is that stock? I didn't have mirror or a magnet to check the plenum, but I looked down there anyway. It didn't have any oil pooled up. It did look greasy though, kinda like a dirty frying pan. Is that normal?
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