Brake Problem Puzzling Me...
#11
02-06-2024, 08:45 AM
Champion
Thanks for the replies, sorry for the delay posting back- moving this past weekend.
Truck is a 2000, 2500 extended cab, 8' bed with the 5.9 gasser. Florida truck from the factory- and I bought it here back in 2004. It's been a solid hauler for me, zero rust of any significance other than some surface inside the bed since I pulled out the bedliner but haven't had the time to do the Raptor Liner. Nearly 300k, still runs great but obviously burns a couple quarts a month- so not bad. I plan on running it till the proverbial wheels fall off since 8' beds are impossible to come by and I'm the guy that owns a truck because he uses it like a truck. Brake lines all appear to be in good condition despite the age (I had to lift the bed to replace the fuel tank sender a couple of years ago and all looked fine).
Would Advance or AZ have the scanner to read the ABS codes? Or should I replace the master cylinder. Booster and master were replaced just a few years ago. Booster is good, if I pump the pedal three times to get it up and firm (did I really say that) then start the engine it drops as I understand it should. I can keep pressure on it when "up" indefinitely and pedal doesn't drop. If I let off and idle forward a few seconds, gotta pump it a couple of times again.
Replace the master cylinder?
Truck is a 2000, 2500 extended cab, 8' bed with the 5.9 gasser. Florida truck from the factory- and I bought it here back in 2004. It's been a solid hauler for me, zero rust of any significance other than some surface inside the bed since I pulled out the bedliner but haven't had the time to do the Raptor Liner. Nearly 300k, still runs great but obviously burns a couple quarts a month- so not bad. I plan on running it till the proverbial wheels fall off since 8' beds are impossible to come by and I'm the guy that owns a truck because he uses it like a truck. Brake lines all appear to be in good condition despite the age (I had to lift the bed to replace the fuel tank sender a couple of years ago and all looked fine).
Would Advance or AZ have the scanner to read the ABS codes? Or should I replace the master cylinder. Booster and master were replaced just a few years ago. Booster is good, if I pump the pedal three times to get it up and firm (did I really say that) then start the engine it drops as I understand it should. I can keep pressure on it when "up" indefinitely and pedal doesn't drop. If I let off and idle forward a few seconds, gotta pump it a couple of times again.
Replace the master cylinder?
#12
02-06-2024, 07:11 PM
I do most of the wrenching myself when I can, but I had a local (well, local before I just moved an hour away) shop do the booster and MC replacement. Couldn't find the receipt, so I called him and he looked it up, it's been 3-1/2 years. He told me I could bring it in and they'd do a "partial" diagnostic scan for $35 or $40 to isolate the issue and cut me a break if it is indeed the mc. He told me it could very well be the ABS module (I was under the impression they rarely fail, but I'm probably wrong) I'll keep that in my back pocket for now and call around to the local stores to see if any have the ABS scan capability. If it IS the ABS module, I'm assuming that would be time to be scouring the boneyards.
#13
02-06-2024, 09:10 PM
Champion
#15
02-07-2024, 10:45 AM
Champion
My '97 Dakota has RWAL instead of 4 wheel ABS. I've had problems with the ABS light coming on because the wire kept coming off the sensor on the rear end. About 3 feet of baling wire cured that.
#16
02-07-2024, 05:04 PM
Record Breaker
#17
02-07-2024, 06:05 PM
Looking at R&R of the master, seems pretty simple except for making bleed tubes from the cylinder to the reservoir from brake line...I'm missing something. After the cylinder is bled, and you need to remove the bleeder tubes- isn't that going to let air back in?
#18
02-07-2024, 06:27 PM
#19
02-07-2024, 07:47 PM
Champion
The bleed tubes are used for bleeding a master cylinder itself once the reservoir is filled with brake fluid. If you aren't removing the brake lines at the master cylinder, no need to perform this operation. It's normally done for a new master cylinder that's delivered out of the box dry. As long as there is fluid in the reservoir after using the bleeder tubes to do the bleeding of the master cylinder, you can disconnect the bleeder tubes and connect the truck's master cylinder lines without affecting the newly bled master cylinder.
#20
02-08-2024, 11:14 AM
Why not just bolt on and fill the master, attach the brake lines loosely, and crack/tighten the nuts and bleed in place rather than bench-bleeding (with a pad underneath to catch the mess)?
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.