Confirming bad CTM?
As we all know, the CTM makes noise for:
It also supplements the:
If you're up for diagnosing:
CONTINUOUS CHIME WITH HEADLAMP SWITCH IN OFF POSITION --AND-- KEY REMOVED FROM IGNITION CYLINDER
Cause 1. (As you already mentioned) Key in ignition switch sense circuit shorted.
Fix: With the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C1) for the headlight switch, the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C2) for the ignition switch, and the instrument panel wire harness connector for the CTM all disconnected, there should be no continuity between the key in ignition switch
sense circuit and a good ground. Repair the key-in ignition switch sense circuit, if required.
Cause 2. Faulty CTM.
Fix: Replace the faulty CTM, if required.
- Door open
- Headlights on
- Key in ignition switch
- Driver's seat belt not fastened
It also supplements the:
- Airbag warning
- Check gages
- Low fuel
- Low wash
- Trans temp
- Water in fuel (diesel models, obviously)
If you're up for diagnosing:
CONTINUOUS CHIME WITH HEADLAMP SWITCH IN OFF POSITION --AND-- KEY REMOVED FROM IGNITION CYLINDER
Cause 1. (As you already mentioned) Key in ignition switch sense circuit shorted.
Fix: With the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C1) for the headlight switch, the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C2) for the ignition switch, and the instrument panel wire harness connector for the CTM all disconnected, there should be no continuity between the key in ignition switch
sense circuit and a good ground. Repair the key-in ignition switch sense circuit, if required.
Cause 2. Faulty CTM.
Fix: Replace the faulty CTM, if required.
Spoiler
As we all know, the CTM makes noise for:
It also supplements the:
If you're up for diagnosing:
CONTINUOUS CHIME WITH HEADLAMP SWITCH IN OFF POSITION --AND-- KEY REMOVED FROM IGNITION CYLINDER
Cause 1. (As you already mentioned) Key in ignition switch sense circuit shorted.
Fix: With the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C1) for the headlight switch, the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C2) for the ignition switch, and the instrument panel wire harness connector for the CTM all disconnected, there should be no continuity between the key in ignition switch
sense circuit and a good ground. Repair the key-in ignition switch sense circuit, if required.
Cause 2. Faulty CTM.
Fix: Replace the faulty CTM, if required.
- Door open
- Headlights on
- Key in ignition switch
- Driver's seat belt not fastened
It also supplements the:
- Airbag warning
- Check gages
- Low fuel
- Low wash
- Trans temp
- Water in fuel (diesel models, obviously)
If you're up for diagnosing:
CONTINUOUS CHIME WITH HEADLAMP SWITCH IN OFF POSITION --AND-- KEY REMOVED FROM IGNITION CYLINDER
Cause 1. (As you already mentioned) Key in ignition switch sense circuit shorted.
Fix: With the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C1) for the headlight switch, the instrument panel wire harness connector (Connector C2) for the ignition switch, and the instrument panel wire harness connector for the CTM all disconnected, there should be no continuity between the key in ignition switch
sense circuit and a good ground. Repair the key-in ignition switch sense circuit, if required.
Cause 2. Faulty CTM.
Fix: Replace the faulty CTM, if required.
Spoiler
Replaced the CTM as suggested in the service manual/troubleshooting.
No change, still chiming SLOW as soon as the harness is connected (again- no key in ignition). As I think about it- the suggested troubleshooting for a shorted key in ignition sensor does not apply here (I think...)
Key in ignition chime is the FAST chime that we typically hear when we do that, or leave the headlamps on and take the key out. The slow chime comes from the EMIC- and as I read this section it occurred to me that I don't recall ever hearing a chime for low fuel, or low washer fluid as it's supposed to do ( or it's been so long I don't remember it). The lights for both illuminate on the dash, but no chime.
Seems to me that if the key in ignition sensor were shorted, I'd get the fast chime as that's the default- not the slow one
As Hey You stated, I've been driving with the module disconnected just fine and figured eff it- until this morning when I was driving 60 miles in light rain and discovered that the CTM also provides the timing for the intermittent wipers. So, it was constantly switching the wipers on/off- or just leaving them on wiping a mostly dry windshield.
For no reason other that being able to have intermittent wipers I'd like to figure this out, but there's no suggested troubleshooting for this.
I would test for the key sensor anyway..... Probably be easy to leave the door open, stick the key in, and see what happens.
The CTM thinks something is up...... question becomes, what???? Are all your gauges reading properly? All the lights working? (in the cluster?)
The CTM thinks something is up...... question becomes, what???? Are all your gauges reading properly? All the lights working? (in the cluster?)
I've been staring at the wiring diagram and there are some interesting design decisions. In any case with the truck dinging and key out, remove fuses 6, 11 and 13 individually (not all together) in the inside fuse panel. 13 should definitely stop the dinging, the other two might give some clues if there is something wrong with the signal from the ignition switch.
You've attempted repair for CAUSE 2, but not for CAUSE 1. If there's a problem at the switch, it's going to chime.













