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1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 5.9l. 253k miles

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Old 07-01-2024, 02:04 PM
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Default 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 5.9l. 253k miles

Rough idle, runs rough, new cat, new map, plugs wire, cap rotor, coil Tps and icv check out. Rerouted plugs wires this per tsb 18-48-98 and it does run a little better. But still runs rough. I'm wondering if I fried the pick up coil/csm because I installed previous plug wires incorrectly 6 years ago and this set as well, haven't driven more 100 miles. I just Rerouted plugs wires per tsb 18-48-98, it did help.
The coil tested out of range so I replaced it, but wondering if I should r&r the pickup coil. I haven't tested it yet. I gotta climb over the motor anyway? I've owned the vehicle since 2002, my supervisor sold it to me. None of the sensors have been replaced except what listed. I want to keep this truck. Besides the dashboard, it's a hell of a truck. I've owned them all...


Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks in advance,

Joe
 
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Old 07-01-2024, 03:44 PM
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Pickup coil is used at a startup to sync fuel injectors, has nothing to do with timing.

Does it always idle rough, or only after it warms up? Does warming up change how it runs at all?
 
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Old 07-01-2024, 09:33 PM
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Default Dear admin,

...it starts right up normally. Occasionally, very occasionally, I'll get a click upon starting, ie a starter click. I cycle the key a couple times it's always started. Idles down to 700 after warm up. Runs rough throughout engine rpm although it does out at about 45 mph.

I bought a cheap obii scanner a couple months back and become familiar with it. No codes.
It's running rich, shift has been negative last couple months as I work on it. I had the cat done two days ago, it was broken but not the problem. However I got some really lean shift readings today, +15. But it seemed to even out. It's been showing +3/-3 for shift last couple months. I don't drive it much, I only make landfill runs every couple, 30 mile roundtrip. I only drove home from muffler shop.

I recently bought a Maddox Deluxe Fuel test kit which the gauge I believe failed out of the box. I exchanged it, I thought the second failed too. So, in CA you can't return anything fuel related, harbor freight told me to throw them away. So I bought an OTC fuel gauge which hooked right up.

I'm not confident with tool yet, perhaps because two failed, it could be user error . The 2nd hf gauge which I thought failed, appears to work, it agrees with the OTC gauge as of last week.

First time I attempted to use the gauge I got 45psi, I and tested each (original) injector and got even readings on all 8 with second hf gauge which then fail, I thought. Bought the OTC gauge and tested both hf gauges, gauge #1 still failed, 2nd hf gauge agreed with the OTC gauge, 30psi, well below acceptable range.

The fuel in the truck I installed 10k miles ago, about 5 years ago was the O'Reilly's pump I could buy in fact while the ran fine, the dash fuel gauge worked intermittently and the gauge died.

I don't have a problem replacing the pump, if that's the problem. And I'll be using Napa or perhaps you can suggest a pump brand.

I know it's a Hemingway, sorry.

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

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Old 07-01-2024, 09:38 PM
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Default O2 sensors

The O2 sensors have responded to the new cat.

There is no long term ft on the OBDII. It shows zero on the OBDII hand held cheap Amazon scanner. Should there be a lgtft reading?

Thank you in advance,

Joe

 
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Old 07-01-2024, 10:08 PM
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Default Timing

The obdii says ignition timing at idle is a steady 15 btdc
 
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Old 07-02-2024, 07:38 AM
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If fuel pressure really is 30 PSI, need to address that first.
 
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Old 07-02-2024, 11:57 AM
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Default @hey you

Thank you will do.

I'll get back to you. I'm just learing how to use the forum, so forgive my learning curve.

thanks,
LR

 
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Old Yesterday, 01:52 PM
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I tested the fuel pressure this am. After several key cycles, I got around 25psi, then when I started the motor, it shot up to 50 PSI.

The truck runs, just like crap. Is there any checks I should do for relays or to make sure the pump is getting enough power or a flow test? I can do a flow test, I have to equipment, it would be a first.

thanks,
LR
 
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Old Yesterday, 01:55 PM
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Might be a bad check valve preventing it from building pressure it if isn't running, or a leaking injector.... Would have to physically pull the rail/injectors to test that though. Check valve failures are pretty standard though.

If it start up, and idles good for a couple minutes when the engine is cold, try disconnecting the front O2 sensor, see if it runs any better.
 
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Old Yesterday, 06:41 PM
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What check valve? Can you please elaborate?

Thanks in advance.
 


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