I have a 2001 2500 4x4 with the V10 and 70k miles. I keep the oil changed etc. but decided to change the plugs. I usually buy NGK plugs for other vehicles and picked up a new set. I believe the plugs in the truck were the original (Dad owned since new, I bought it about 8 years ago). I had some stuff to do today so I changed the right side only (5). I drove and noticed if I gave it more than the usual like 40-50 percent I had a ton of valve clatter (pretty sure predet). The plugs I pulled (champions) were showing their age when I pulled them. I noticed the gap on those plugs were easily .060 or greater. My gap checker went to .040 and there was PLENTY of gap left. The forums and parts store all said .045. I have them at .045. The valve clatter is bad and it is definitely affecting power until you get above say 3500 then no knock. IDK, what the heck. Anyone went through this?

 

Did you buy copper NGK plugs or the higher end style plugs? Also, you should change all 10 plugs in the motor before driving it, especially since the old plugs in the motor are so worn out.

 

I pulled the plugs and gapped them at .060 and reduced the predet a LOT but there is still some. Reading other posts I see this is normal and I also see that you can change the timing by increasing the gap. I think my truck may have been timed with the .060 plus plugs and I will get my timing light out of the cobwebs to see what they timed it at. Other V10 owners on the forum have also noticed their plugs at .060 or greater. Adding this info for future reference. I'll update the post as I go.

 

Did you happen to get something close to the original heat range? And you didn't answer if you got copper ones or rare earth.

 

I've had both platinum and copper ngk plugs in my v10, both ran fine. Did you do wires as well? There was a TSB about plug wire routing causing cross firing between the wires and pre detonation resulting.

 

That TSB was for the V-8s, you don't get a lotta choice where the wires go on the 10.

 

There was one for the V10s as well. TSB 18-16-98------This says that they could have problems with the #7 cylinder because of cross firing with the #5 & #7 spark plug wires causing pre ignition in the #7 Cylinder.

 

I was not aware. Thank you. Wonder if that is where my mystery misfire is coming from......

Do your misfire counters work??? I had a completely dead cylinder, plug wire was burnt in half, and it never set a code.....

 

I think the guy who was supposed to code misfire detection for the v10s went home early that day. I have purposefully disconnected 3 plug wires to try and set it, nothing. Seems to be a theme for the v10s that they do not set misfire codes.

Reading the original post again, get all the plugs changed out. Worn plugs on the same coil as fresh plugs may be the issue.

 

I bought NGK Iridiums ZFR6FIX-11 or NGK 6441. The truck was running with no issues, I drove it to pick up the new plugs, came home, installed the right side 5 plugs at the suggested gap of .045 and didn't make it 1/3 mile when I drove out of the neighborhood and the valve noise was so bad under accel I backed off to 30% power. I then drove home, re-gapped the plugs to .060 ish and it reduced the clatter to a very small amount but it is still present. This weekend I'm going to gap another .01 and try them one last time. I still only have the right side on the NGK's and ALL the noise comes from that side. Wires are fine and I think this engine uses separate coils for each cyl. so that should be OK. If I can't get rid of the knock I'm taking the other 5 unused plugs back and trying something else. Every cyl on the right side is making noise, or was, I think 2-3 are now making noise and far less noise.