Just disconnect the O2 sensors, and see if the problem goes away.

 

If you have an OBD2 reader with live data see what the PCM thinks the engine and intake air temps are. You might be running super rich. You could also monitor the O2 sensors that way.

 

My scanner does have Live data, and I’ve used it to diagnose an O2 problem I previously had in another vehicle, but this OBD2 port just gives me a KWP2000. So i’ve never actually been able to diagnose anything on this truck using OBD2, that’s pretty much exactly what it seems like, running super rich but after warm up (exactly 18-20 miles every time). It starts with a slight power/acceleration loss, then i’m able to tell the hesitation is coming. I’m hoping i’m able to just unplug the O2’s instead of disconnecting them completely so it’s not so obnoxious to not only myself but other drivers, but that will come when i’m able to get my hands on it again, work has me, and not letting me go🤣. The plugs are cheap cheap so I was also thinking of just a basic tune-up, the plugs don’t have too many miles on them, but faults could happen, so I was going to pull one and see how it looked. Testing all the sensors with a volt meter when I am having these problems, wouldn’t hurt either.

 

Wonder if your temperature sensor is bad or the thermostat is stuck open??

 

That actually might be something to stick my head into… triggering the PCM into what tries to be a shutdown. I’ve never touched the sensor, but the thermostat I switched out maybe 4 years ago, The block actually has a horrible gash in the housing, that the previous owner did, 1st time leaked, 2nd time also, 3rd time was the charm, with form-a-gasket, a regular gasket, and a 24 hour dry🤦🏽‍♂️. The temp gauge is one of the gauges that I have lost recently before all these problems developed, along with oil pressure. The oil pressure guage drops to 0 whenever I press the gas, temp gauge has a hard time actually going above 150 degrees unless we’re in the summer (I live in Arizona, 105 degree weather). So i figured it was another PCM symptom.

 

Should be easy to check the coolant temperature with a laser temperature gun - here's an example - https://www.harborfreight.com/121-in...ter-63985.html

A scanner can tell you quickly what temperature the PCM is seeing from the sensor...

 

Thanks for the Link, I was thinking about picking one up to see what exactly was getting hotter than it should be, but as far as reading the PCM I am unable to, considering the port does not work properly.

 

The trouble with the scan tool might be the tool itself or part of the problem. 1996 was the first year for OBD2 and some tools take a long time to figure out which protocol the vehicle uses (there are 5 protocols plus some variants). I have a simple Autel that takes a long time get past checking for KWP2000. Ideally test your tool with a similar vintage Chrysler with the JTEC PCM, or borrow a tool that is "known good" communicating with that type of PCM. Having a working scan tool makes life much easier. On the flip side you would know if you have an electrical issue with the PCM.

 

That’s most likely the problem, it’s worked great on my other Ram’s and Dakota’s, but this is the only 96 i’ve had. Autozone is about 10 miles from my house, I’ve considered using their scan tool, just to ensure all is well, even if I drive it until I do have the problems, I could take it there then scan while it’s hesitating. I’ve done A LOT more research about O2’s on these trucks, specifically without the catalytic converter, as well as the IAT and Temp sensors, they are definitely my symptoms, but what else describes “lack of engine power, trouble starting, CEL, etc…” ? 🤣 Nothing yells out at me as far as these problems happening with temperature.🤦🏽‍♂️

 

If the other trucks are pre-2003 it's not the tool. With regards to the temperature readings, the 96-97 have a quirk in that they have two coolant temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the PCM. The gauge will still work when the other sensor fools the PCM into giving it a lot of fuel.