Torque usually goes to the right rear wheel. An open differential will spin that wheel unless the left loses all traction. Then it goes to where the least traction is. One thing I noticed was you plan to do a water pump and stop a leak at the timing cover. Since you have to pull the water pump and harmonic balancer to fix that, 95% of the work is done to change the timing chain. A new chain can reall wake an engine up. Slap a new thermostat in there with the factory 195 setting and you'll probably appreciate the better heat you get from the heater.

 

Thanks for the wise advice ol' grouch. The water pump job was part of the list of things I've already done. Part of the rehab of this old van getting it ready to do some long overdue boondocking once I get this traction problem solved. Boondocking requires getting off the pavement so I really need to know I can get off and on the roadway in the Arizona dirt . The advise from this forum has been educational and I think I'm getting close to what I'm hoping for.

 

You should be able to pull a 9.25 compatible TracLok LSD diff carrier from your local salvage yard for under $100. I new clutch pack for a TracLok LSD is $150 on Amazon...


That's probably your cheapest option but swapping differentials is not really for the feint of heart... however, there's plenty of good Youtube videos on this! I've already started down this path myself to swap in a TL LSD.

 

While pulling a TracLoc out of a salvage yard 9.25 rear and adding clutches to it 'might' be the cheapest option, you also have the labor of swapping out the clutches in the LSD and labor for setup of the new LSD carrier in the existing rear axle of the van.

Swapping to a good limited slip rear from a salvage yard is likely the easiest and cheapest way to do the swap in my opinion. I had to swap my drum brake Dana 60 to a disc brake Dana 60 rear axle a few years ago. The swap did entail brake bleeding, installing the new disc brake style parking brake cables, swapping the speed sensor and new U-bolts, along with torquing those U-bolts to spec with a torque wrench. I also filled the new rear axle with gear oil and friction modifier for the limited slip unit.

 

Finding a good one may be the problem. See if you can find one with low miles.

 

Could do a lunchbox locker as well in the rear. I do prefer the LSD as there is no waiting like when you do for locker to engage but a lunchbox may be the most cost effective.

 

Easiest too..... Less than 30 minute job.... Stinky though. I never did care for the odor of gear lube.

 

I've had more response than expected for this question about traction. It's greatly appreciated. Now it's time to get on You Tube and get educated.
Regarding the lunchbox...when you say delay? Is it something that affects normal drivability?

 

Lockers can take a bit to engage when they sense wheelspin, and some of them can be pretty harsh..... One of the reasons I like the clutch type, or helical gear LSDs. Granted, it isn't much of a delay..... but, if you are generous with your right foot when you have one tire spinning, and thumps pretty hard. If you ease into it though, not nearly so bad.

 

Yeah one tire always has to slip a bit for an automatic locker to kick in. Its not bad, most of my family are gm owners and the factory lockers are alright. They do respond pretty quick both the oe and aftermarket lockers they've used, none are as seemless as my factory lsd is. However they have had good luck with road manners. They only lock under power so unless you are punching it around corners you won't even notice it driving around. But yes like HeyYou pointed out lunch boxes are easy to install as they just replace the spider gear assembly, which is nice because it shouldn't mess with your gear set up. They are also significantly cheaper than for example an air locker or detroit locker.