My truck tows my open 2 axle car trailer or the single axle 6' x 10' high sided utility like they aren't even behind the truck. I typically tow either of those empty in OD, especially since the truck has 4.10 gearing and the beefed up transmission/cooling. No issues to-date.

 

My question is for the OP. It says in the owners manual to turn OFF the od when towing. Empty car trailer i have done it but not loaded. The op didn't say if he has the towing package(external transmission cooler) either. If you plan on towing you need a external cooler. Towing a load with OD on puts a massive amount of load on the OD clutches and can cause them to slip and burn up. The friction material comes off and goes into the fluid then clogging up the filter. Not to mention heating up the fluid.

 

the specs 1996 V8 5.9L Ram std cab 1500 4wd R&P is 3.55 with 345/75/16 tires
It does have an OEM external transmission cooler.
I ordered parts from several sources.
1. Deluxe Rebuild Kit - MRK DELUXE KIT 91-97 A518, 46RH, 46RE (HIGH ENERGY FRICTIONS) (SINGLE WRAP REAR BAND) rear band # INCLUDES: 22002EF, 28752B, B22022A, 12010C, 22030EC, A22024B, S225AM
2. Shift KIt
3. Torque Converter
4.
What does the 4.2 ratio band lever do exactly? would I feel the effects of the 4.2 band lever while driving?
Not sure if the rebuild kit include the front band.

I will order:
4.2 Band Lever
Front Band (if not included. I will call tomorrow get more info.

Thanks for the help.

 

Higher ratio band lever just applies more force to the band when it applies. Probably firmer shifts.... and certainly no slipping. Not sure it's really required though. MontC talked about it in his thread. (I miss that guy....)

 

You're really working the motor and transmission to death with those super tall tires (345/75/16 ?) and anemic 3.55 gearing. Might want to seriously consider upgrading the gearing if you plan to keep running those tall tires.

 

Whoops... not 345/75/16 the tires are 245/75/16.

 

245/75/16 - That's much better with 3.55 gearing. I'm running 285/75/16 and upgraded to 4.10 gearing all around. My stop light and cruising acceleration is much improved with the gearing swap.

 

I ordered the 4.2 band lever

 

They don't make the Sure Cure Kit anymore, you'll get a Zip Kit. I've ordered about 10 Sure Cure from different places and always got a Zip Kit, even when they show a Sure Cure box on the site. This was 5-6 years ago so they might have started up the Sure Cure Kit production again.

The metal accumulators and the HD kick down that are in the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit and NOT in the Sonnax Zip Kit, were in the transmission performance rebuild kit I used. There are items that are in the 2 kits that the transmission needs to be pulled and torn down so bushings, turbine shaft seals and other small items can be replaced. With the Sure Cure Kit, one will have to get a reamer to Ream Pressure Regulator Valve & Throttle Pressure Plug Bore NOTE: Requires Sonnax tool kit F-22771A-TL7 and VB-FIX alignment fixture, not included in this kit. With the Sonnax Zip Kit reaming isn't required. For the Throttle Valve Lineup for the ZIP Kit, I used 1 shim for positive engagement and to me it shifts nicely. More shims, more positive engagement. The detailed instructions for the ZIP Kit for the 46re, https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4439-zip-kit and the Sure Cure Kit for the 46re, https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...f?v=1534529881

 

OP you could skip half the engine mods and save your trans some wear by just upgrading your gears. Either a 3.92 factory ratio or 4.10s. 3.92 are a 10.5% increase in torque and 4.10s are going to be 15.5% in torque by way of gear reduction. It would be like picking up 50ft lbs of peak torque at the motor.