Rust repair/boxed frame
I guess it's a known issue that these trucks like to rot their frame behind the fuel tank. My truck also has a small crack on RH frame rail, between the cab and the bed. I've welded that at least once.
Left side is no brainer, I already have the material to fix that, but I was thinking to make both sides stronger.
I've thought about boxing the C-frame from under the cab all the way to rear spring front hanger.
But my concern is that I might create another weak spot somewhere else, as the frame is designed to flex, and every once in a while I do some off-roading.
Or maybe I just weld some flat stock to lower lip of the C.
To box or not to box?
Left side is no brainer, I already have the material to fix that, but I was thinking to make both sides stronger.
I've thought about boxing the C-frame from under the cab all the way to rear spring front hanger.
But my concern is that I might create another weak spot somewhere else, as the frame is designed to flex, and every once in a while I do some off-roading.
Or maybe I just weld some flat stock to lower lip of the C.
To box or not to box?
I guess it's a known issue that these trucks like to rot their frame behind the fuel tank. My truck also has a small crack on RH frame rail, between the cab and the bed. I've welded that at least once.
Left side is no brainer, I already have the material to fix that, but I was thinking to make both sides stronger.
I've thought about boxing the C-frame from under the cab all the way to rear spring front hanger.
But my concern is that I might create another weak spot somewhere else, as the frame is designed to flex, and every once in a while I do some off-roading.
Or maybe I just weld some flat stock to lower lip of the C.
To box or not to box?
Left side is no brainer, I already have the material to fix that, but I was thinking to make both sides stronger.
I've thought about boxing the C-frame from under the cab all the way to rear spring front hanger.
But my concern is that I might create another weak spot somewhere else, as the frame is designed to flex, and every once in a while I do some off-roading.
Or maybe I just weld some flat stock to lower lip of the C.
To box or not to box?
With good suspension articulation, seems like it'd be a non-issue.
This is something I'm going to tune, I really don't like how the rear rides empty. But we'll see how it turns out.
I have a flatbed on my truck, which also strenghtens the rear part of the frame, and I need to make couple of changes which probably make it even more rigid.
I have a flatbed on my truck, which also strenghtens the rear part of the frame, and I need to make couple of changes which probably make it even more rigid.
This is something I'm going to tune, I really don't like how the rear rides empty. But we'll see how it turns out.
I have a flatbed on my truck, which also strenghtens the rear part of the frame, and I need to make couple of changes which probably make it even more rigid.
I have a flatbed on my truck, which also strenghtens the rear part of the frame, and I need to make couple of changes which probably make it even more rigid.
I did look up the Sulastic shackles. And boy they are expensive! $530 a set, and after shipping, taxes and customs, they add up to a grand!
Though they look well built and sturdy, but still they have limited lifespan.
Though they look well built and sturdy, but still they have limited lifespan.
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Interesting idea, but, I just don't see the cost/benefit ratio for those.......
Did some reading, and apprently they take out the harsness from the rear suspension. Still too expensive, but I found similar product from Alibaba for $60/piece. Welded part vs Sulastics cast part.
I'd opt for duel shocks than buy them. You still have the front mount so in theory it's only helping to eliminate 50% of the harshness. This thread reminds me of an episode of American Hot Rod. There was a Model A frame that I believe was one of the workers. Boyd told him to box the frame but he wanted to keep it all original. There was a big argument over it. Cracks start from fatigue (flexing) so keeping it from "flexing" should greatly reduce the chance of it cracking.











