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Grindin when turning right

Old Dec 5, 2025 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mechanicman#100
all hard ware including axel nut tourqued to spec. Already checked of dust sheild rubbing. And only turning right any other time it quiet

Are there any unusual marks on the inside of the wheel? Are your brake pads flat? I've been known to drive and stop at times in a "spirited" manner. Dodge uses a floating caliper and repeated heavy stops or stopping heavily loaded will cause the pads to wear at an angle. This can warp the rotor and make a grinding noise. Usually whne applying the brakes but if heavily worn, just turning.

It's also you have a rusted or worn u-joint on that axle. I replaced my axle joints and the left was pretty good but the right side there was no rollers in the joint. Just rusty dust.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Are there any unusual marks on the inside of the wheel? Are your brake pads flat? I've been known to drive and stop at times in a "spirited" manner. Dodge uses a floating caliper and repeated heavy stops or stopping heavily loaded will cause the pads to wear at an angle. This can warp the rotor and make a grinding noise. Usually whne applying the brakes but if heavily worn, just turning.

It's also you have a rusted or worn u-joint on that axle. I replaced my axle joints and the left was pretty good but the right side there was no rollers in the joint. Just rusty dust.
axel ujoints not very old and smooth at all angles (this was my first thought) going after replacing rotors and pads next...i did have a issue i repaired at the beginning of all this where the slide pin rubber boots/bushing was swelled up causing the calipers to be excessivly tight to move( thought this was the cause but no change after) and am concerned of unusual wear/warpage from that. not sure when ill get those parts tho have some issues with money right now, took 4 months just to get enough for a hub (and that was sadly a rock auto cheepy just to get by)
 
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Old Dec 6, 2025 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mechanicman#100
axel ujoints not very old and smooth at all angles (this was my first thought) going after replacing rotors and pads next...i did have a issue i repaired at the beginning of all this where the slide pin rubber boots/bushing was swelled up causing the calipers to be excessivly tight to move( thought this was the cause but no change after) and am concerned of unusual wear/warpage from that. not sure when ill get those parts tho have some issues with money right now, took 4 months just to get enough for a hub (and that was sadly a rock auto cheepy just to get by)

My calipers actually made a groove on the inside of the wheel.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2025 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
My calipers actually made a groove on the inside of the wheel.
have checked that too already nothing making contact, that was a early thought as well but all that is good
 
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Old Dec 6, 2025 | 08:22 PM
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Alright fellas figured it out andngot it fixed. It was actually 2 combined issues. First issue was the seized caliper bushing/boots had warpes rotor a little and combined with that the dust sheild was a too close at the bottom just enough to slightl rub under the extra stress turning but not make contact any other time. Bending the sheild back solved it and will eventually replace the rotors and pads when i can afford it. Thanks for all the ideas
 
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Old Dec 9, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Mechanicman#100
Alright fellas figured it out andngot it fixed. It was actually 2 combined issues. First issue was the seized caliper bushing/boots had warpes rotor a little and combined with that the dust sheild was a too close at the bottom just enough to slightl rub under the extra stress turning but not make contact any other time. Bending the sheild back solved it and will eventually replace the rotors and pads when i can afford it. Thanks for all the ideas
Whenever I have it torn down I personally don't replace rotor shields. They cause more problems than they solve.

Glad you seem to have it figured out!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2025 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
Whenever I have it torn down I personally don't replace rotor shields. They cause more problems than they solve.

Glad you seem to have it figured out!

They cost money. They wouldn't be put on if they didn't need to be there. They protect the rotor and pads from road debris and contaminants. I agree they can be a nuisance, but I never remove them.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
They cost money. They wouldn't be put on if they didn't need to be there. They protect the rotor and pads from road debris and contaminants. I agree they can be a nuisance, but I never remove them.
More often than not, here in Michigan, they have rusted away..... I don't bother replacing them.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 12:59 PM
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When I recently did the front end rebuild of a friend's '96 Ram 1500 2WD truck, I ran into splash shields that were rusted through in some areas. Since I had to replace the spindle on one side due to wear/gouges in the inner rotor grease seal area, I got lucky and found some used dust shields (and the spindle) in great shape at a local pick & pay salvage yard. Made my day!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2025 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
More often than not, here in Michigan, they have rusted away..... I don't bother replacing them.
Here in CO I've removed them on at least a half dozen vehicles I can think of, including my wife's daily F150 and my daily F150. Never experienced a problem except fewer banshee screams from gravel stuck in there. We drive gravel roads every day and live on a gravel road.

We do NOT get a lot of rain. I've been told they might help keep the rotors drier in heavy rain for that initial pedal push. I have no idea if true
 
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