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Leaking trans cooler lines at rubber

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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 08:22 PM
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Default Leaking trans cooler lines at rubber

'99 1500 5.9: both cooler lines are leaking pretty good at the rubber section just behind the radiator.

Both lines appear to thread onto the hard line and then there's a quick connect at the radiator itself.

It would be genius if someone sold just these rubber portions ‐‐ no need to replace the hardline if it's not rusted. But I can't find such a thing.

So, I guess I'll be cutting and cobbling on bulk line with hose clamps. Are there any special (barbed etc) fittings I'll need? Who else has done this?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 09:12 PM
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Looks like Inline tube makes complete replacement lines for reasonably cheap.......
 
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 06:46 AM
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Do you have the external cooler?
Looks like Inline tube makes complete replacement lines for reasonably cheap.......
Brake lines not rubber trans cooler lines. Last time i looked only one of the rubber lines is available(radiator to the external cooler). Mine are leaking also but not sure if the fitting under the crimp is barbed or not. There is a thread here on the check valve removal but no info or pics of these fittings.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Do you have the external cooler?

Brake lines not rubber trans cooler lines. Last time i looked only one of the rubber lines is available(radiator to the external cooler). Mine are leaking also but not sure if the fitting under the crimp is barbed or not. There is a thread here on the check valve removal but no info or pics of these fittings.
Google showed me complete trans lines as well, from trans to radiator. Didn't see any for the external aux cooler though. Other companies make them as well.....
 
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Google showed me complete trans lines as well, from trans to radiator. Didn't see any for the external aux cooler though. Other companies make them as well.....
Snaking them out ain't THAT easy. I've tried. It's not impossible, but really you need to drop the exhaust and remove the starter. Or it might be easier if the fan shroud were out of the way -- I can't remember

It's absurd to replace the entire hard line when there's nothing wrong with it. Things don't rust here. Most of the aftermarket offerings are crimped such that you can't just unthread and move the soft line over. Plus the Dorman offerings tend to leak at the push connect on the rad (shocking, I know)
 
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
Snaking them out ain't THAT easy. I've tried. It's not impossible, but really you need to drop the exhaust and remove the starter. Or it might be easier if the fan shroud were out of the way -- I can't remember

It's absurd to replace the entire hard line when there's nothing wrong with it. Things don't rust here. Most of the aftermarket offerings are crimped such that you can't just unthread and move the soft line over. Plus the Dorman offerings tend to leak at the push connect on the rad (shocking, I know)
In that case, I would be tempted to just get some good trans line, of the correct caliber, and some good hose clamps, and call it a day.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 07:28 PM
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That's my question, If they hold the hose from the crimp there is no way a hose clamp will hold it on(no barb). IF it is barbed then it's easy. Anybody know? I actually bought the line from the rad to the external cooler but never got a chance to put it on. The old one i can cut the crimp off and have a look what's under the hose. That's not happening till the spring though.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 04:03 PM
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Ok @Moparite this is really easy as I had hoped. For parts, all you need is 3/8" tx line and some clamps.

Just cut the crimps and pull the hose(s) off. Cut the metal sleeves. On the check valve, the valve itself is beautifully barbed for a hose. It was so elegant I opted to keep it and thru-drilled it. The other three connections have to slip over a flare and it's TIGHT, but once you get it you likely would not even need hose clamps!

For tools, I recommend the following but many would be optional:
1) a small abrasive cutter like a Dremel. I use the Milwaukee 3" M12
2) hose pliers to shove the hoses on -- I prefer the GW "double X" design
3) a GOOD heat gun to get the hose lightly smoking before installing
4) welding gloves -- I'm not kidding you need to grab the hose near or around the heated portion
5) the appropriate disco tool to take the push connects off the radiator
6) two 19mm or 3/4" wrenches for the check valve union
7) method of choice to drill the check valve out -- I used a 9/32" bit then still pushed some spring material out with a punch or drift.

PICS LATER!!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 05:32 PM
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Basically, cut, push, clamp. I did not bother double clamping -- feels very unnecessary




 
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 08:45 AM
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Thanks so much for the pics, Just the info i wanted to know!
 
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