Leaking trans cooler lines at rubber
'99 1500 5.9: both cooler lines are leaking pretty good at the rubber section just behind the radiator.
Both lines appear to thread onto the hard line and then there's a quick connect at the radiator itself.
It would be genius if someone sold just these rubber portions ‐‐ no need to replace the hardline if it's not rusted. But I can't find such a thing.
So, I guess I'll be cutting and cobbling on bulk line with hose clamps. Are there any special (barbed etc) fittings I'll need? Who else has done this?
Both lines appear to thread onto the hard line and then there's a quick connect at the radiator itself.
It would be genius if someone sold just these rubber portions ‐‐ no need to replace the hardline if it's not rusted. But I can't find such a thing.
So, I guess I'll be cutting and cobbling on bulk line with hose clamps. Are there any special (barbed etc) fittings I'll need? Who else has done this?
Do you have the external cooler?
Brake lines not rubber trans cooler lines. Last time i looked only one of the rubber lines is available(radiator to the external cooler). Mine are leaking also but not sure if the fitting under the crimp is barbed or not. There is a thread here on the check valve removal but no info or pics of these fittings.
Looks like Inline tube makes complete replacement lines for reasonably cheap.......
Do you have the external cooler?
Brake lines not rubber trans cooler lines. Last time i looked only one of the rubber lines is available(radiator to the external cooler). Mine are leaking also but not sure if the fitting under the crimp is barbed or not. There is a thread here on the check valve removal but no info or pics of these fittings.
Brake lines not rubber trans cooler lines. Last time i looked only one of the rubber lines is available(radiator to the external cooler). Mine are leaking also but not sure if the fitting under the crimp is barbed or not. There is a thread here on the check valve removal but no info or pics of these fittings.

It's absurd to replace the entire hard line when there's nothing wrong with it. Things don't rust here. Most of the aftermarket offerings are crimped such that you can't just unthread and move the soft line over. Plus the Dorman offerings tend to leak at the push connect on the rad (shocking, I know)
Snaking them out ain't THAT easy. I've tried. It's not impossible, but really you need to drop the exhaust and remove the starter. Or it might be easier if the fan shroud were out of the way -- I can't remember
It's absurd to replace the entire hard line when there's nothing wrong with it. Things don't rust here. Most of the aftermarket offerings are crimped such that you can't just unthread and move the soft line over. Plus the Dorman offerings tend to leak at the push connect on the rad (shocking, I know)
It's absurd to replace the entire hard line when there's nothing wrong with it. Things don't rust here. Most of the aftermarket offerings are crimped such that you can't just unthread and move the soft line over. Plus the Dorman offerings tend to leak at the push connect on the rad (shocking, I know)
That's my question, If they hold the hose from the crimp there is no way a hose clamp will hold it on(no barb). IF it is barbed then it's easy. Anybody know? I actually bought the line from the rad to the external cooler but never got a chance to put it on. The old one i can cut the crimp off and have a look what's under the hose. That's not happening till the spring though.
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Ok @Moparite this is really easy as I had hoped. For parts, all you need is 3/8" tx line and some clamps.
Just cut the crimps and pull the hose(s) off. Cut the metal sleeves. On the check valve, the valve itself is beautifully barbed for a hose. It was so elegant I opted to keep it and thru-drilled it. The other three connections have to slip over a flare and it's TIGHT, but once you get it you likely would not even need hose clamps!
For tools, I recommend the following but many would be optional:
1) a small abrasive cutter like a Dremel. I use the Milwaukee 3" M12
2) hose pliers to shove the hoses on -- I prefer the GW "double X" design
3) a GOOD heat gun to get the hose lightly smoking before installing
4) welding gloves -- I'm not kidding you need to grab the hose near or around the heated portion
5) the appropriate disco tool to take the push connects off the radiator
6) two 19mm or 3/4" wrenches for the check valve union
7) method of choice to drill the check valve out -- I used a 9/32" bit then still pushed some spring material out with a punch or drift.
PICS LATER!!
Just cut the crimps and pull the hose(s) off. Cut the metal sleeves. On the check valve, the valve itself is beautifully barbed for a hose. It was so elegant I opted to keep it and thru-drilled it. The other three connections have to slip over a flare and it's TIGHT, but once you get it you likely would not even need hose clamps!
For tools, I recommend the following but many would be optional:
1) a small abrasive cutter like a Dremel. I use the Milwaukee 3" M12
2) hose pliers to shove the hoses on -- I prefer the GW "double X" design
3) a GOOD heat gun to get the hose lightly smoking before installing
4) welding gloves -- I'm not kidding you need to grab the hose near or around the heated portion
5) the appropriate disco tool to take the push connects off the radiator
6) two 19mm or 3/4" wrenches for the check valve union
7) method of choice to drill the check valve out -- I used a 9/32" bit then still pushed some spring material out with a punch or drift.
PICS LATER!!











