Just had a quick question, if I wanted to keep my stock Y-pipe and delete my cat is there an easy way to do this? Also I live in the Wichita, Kansas area are there any other Dodge Forum people in this area?

 

Just cut the pipe right behind the cat, eat out the core then weld it back up.
"How to"
cut the pipe w/ a cutting wheel, sawzall, or your choice of cutters.
Get some re-bar, pry-bar, paddle bit, &/or combination of all.
Stab, drill, whichever for a bit, start the truck, rev, to blow out the chunks
clean up so you don't lay in the mess
repeat, repeat,..........
till all the honeycomb is outta there
then sew it back together.........

Not that I've ever done this nor do I condone this behavior!!!

 

If you have an oxygen sensor after your converter, you may run into an issue when removing/gutting the cat. That sensor is there to make sure you have a functioning converter, so you will meet emissions. If it sees an air mixture it doesn't like, it will richen your a/f mixture and your gas mileage will hit the floor.

You'll have to get an o2 sim or spoof (or whatever they're called for the rams...every car seems to have a different name [8D]) to fix that issue.

 

Hmmm, glad you said that!!!!
My 95 diidn't have the sensor after the cat.
The 98 does, dangit.
How much would the "spoof" run?

 

When you get the sim you also have to get a heater sim also. The PCM checks the O2 sensor for a correct range of voltage output and the correct ohms from the heater in the O2 sensor. You can get both the O2 Sim and Heater Sim on Ebay for a total of about 35 to 50 dollars. You will have to get a wiring diagram to splice the sim in there. You can also check out Jegs racing website for one that you hook up just like a regualr O2 sim but those are more expensive because they are preassembled they run from 70 dollars on up.

 

Why do you want to empty the cat? Is it plugged and are there any emission laws in effect in your area? If so you might run into some problems down the road. Here in NY they hook a cable to the computer jack and Albany tels the inspector if it passes. Also they put a probe of some sort in the tail pipe to check emissions. Just a FYI

 

Don't remember the code, but it is for Cat converter efficiency.
I have to replace the O2 rear sensor since I had to beat the crap out of it to get it out bfore emptying mine out.
I removed the entire section-Ypipe and all.
Use Oxy-Acetylene torch to open it and welded it back up when I was done.
Keep in mind your local emmisions laws.
Also, it is a Federal violation to remove or tamper with any converter.
If I keep the truck under 5000 miles/year it is exempt from emmisions here in Pa.
But I stil have to pay for the sticker....gotta love the logic in that!!

 

So if I take the cat completely out what will happen. If I put two new pipes in where that was and make my truck have true duals will it screw anything up. Also, will I need that sim, and if so, could i get a link to one that someone has used and knows works.

 

The Fastman (same guy who sells TB's) has 02 simms for ~$75. If you gut/eliminate your cat you will need one of these to keep the CE light from coming on. I have a buddy who develops fuel additives for a major corporation. From what he tells me, on most OBDII vehicles the single aft 02 sensor is for diagnostic puposes only. It will not affect how your motor runs, i.e. will not make the computer change the a/f ratio. That is all controlled by the upstream sensor. The aft sensor will, however throw a CE code if it detects to much carbon monoxide in the exhaust. So, it should not change the way your motor runs from a ECM standpoint, but without the simm you will never have the benefit of knowing if something else has thrown a code to illuminate your CE light.

IMO, high flow cat is best.

 

I hate to argue that, but from my experience, your buddy is wrong. When I took the converter/downpipe off my 99 Grand Prix and put in a 3" offroad/race pipe, the CES light came on after running the car for 15 mins. After about a 2 weeks of running it with the CES light, my exhaust tips were pitch black (running rich). Prior to that they were silver & polished, and had been that way for the first 2 years I had my car. They NEVER had carbon build up on them like they did after a 2 weeks of running with the race pipe. My gas mileage also dropped almost 5mpg...from 27 to 22. The pipe was THE ONLY thing I changed. I didn't even unplug the oxygen sensor when I swapped them. Just screwed it out of the old pipe and into the new one. So it DOES effect the A/F ratio. I ran it that way for 2 years, and we all know what happens when you run a vehicle rich for a long time...you kill your upstream sensor as well. So not only did I have to put in a simm (had to get 2 different ones before I found one that worked)...I also had to buy a new upstream sensor. [:'(]

Ask anyone who has messed with their exhaust on www.clubgp.com. They'll tell you the same thing about converter removal.

You shouldn't need two different sims though. One should do the job of both spoofing the signal and the heater. I know the Casper simm on my car has a red light to simlulate the heater. Here's the simm I would recommend for the Ram: http://www.thefastman.com/02Simms.asp

And quoted to support my previous statement...