Do u all think there is any possible way of swithing my 94 dodge rams computer thing with a newer one, doesnt matter if i have to splice cut or whatever. Thanx i know it might be a stupid question but i reallly want a hypertech for my truck.

 

Where there's a will, there's a way.....(not much help i know)

 

it would be a HUGE amount of work and money, all for a programmer?

why don't you just take the money and put some engine work into your truck, you will get a hell of a lot more gains than a few HP from a programmer

 

well i dont know what else i can do i have the fastmant tb on its way. i have headers,not cat, flowmaster, 8.8mm wires, msd blaster, k&n cai. I mainly need low end power since i do use my truck for mud bogging. 1994 ram 1500 4x4 5.2 manaul trans.
What other mods can i do without having to stroke it.

 

the OBD-I computer system was from 1992-1995

the OBD-II computer system (1996 up) is quite a bit different, needs a different wiring harness too, and in later years all the engine sensors go to the computer first and then the PCM computer 'runs' the gauges on your dashboard. This can be a problem

First consider buying (usually found on eBay) a Mopar Performance PCM computer for your '94 Ram manual - typical used price $50 to 150 and if memory serves me right years 1994 and 1995 are the same part number. The original 'Magnum Engines, 1st Ed' book shows about a 20 ft-lb gain when this PCM is used with high octane gasoline - the higher the better like Sunoco 95 because one thing all the Hypertech/Superchips/MoparPerf units do is advance the ignition timing about 12 degrees while they lean (not richen) the wide open throttle air to fuel ratio back from 11.5 toward the best torque ratio around 12.8

You can get an idea of what a 12-20 degree ignition advance can do for torque gain on a Magnum reading this old article:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/40639/


If you decide to tackle the PCM computer change look for a 1996. I believe in that year the dashboard was still old fashioned gauges. By 1998 the dashboards were all computer driven.

Want to 'feel' the effect of a Mopar Performance PCM 'on the cheap' ?

Time 0-60 several times on a safe stretch of empty highway, or do some quartermile runs.

First, pull your sparkplugs, sharpen all points on both electrodes, and increase the gap to 0.060 inches from the stock 0.035. Index the plugs so that the ground wire is over against the all. For example on #1 cylinder this would put the groundwire at about the 2 o'clock position to maybe 4 o'clock. On #3 cylinder behind it the ground wire would need to be at the 10 o'clock (you will notice the sparkplugs slant opposite ways)

Then let your gas tank run down nearly empty (where you still have about 5 gallons left in the tank below E), refill with 5 gallons of 93-95 octane, run this down to E, refill with 10 gallons 93-95 octane, then buy about 3 gallons of E85 fuel or some 100% denatured alcohol. You are mixing 15 gallons of premium gasoline (check to see if what you are buying is already 10% ethanol) and add the 3 gallons of alcohol to your tank.

The sparkplug gap will quicken your 'real world' timing so that the cylinder reach peak pressure about 10 degrees past top dead center that approximates 'mean best torque'. Big gaps and indexing can be good for anywhere from 3-6 degrees advance.

Note we are talking about timing the peak pressure - not degrees of ignition advance which is where the spark starts. The addition of the ethanol will 'lean' the wide open throttle air to fuel ratio back toward 12.8.

You need to use the premium gasoline because as your lean back from 11.5 toward 12.8 the engine will be more prone to ping or detonate. Detonation is worst at 15 air to fuel, and drops off either richer or leaner.

You won't feel much of anything at part throttle normal driving on the big gaps and alcohol blend.

You will feel a little more 'oomph' with the pedal to the floor, particularly in the 1500-3500 rpm range.

The Mopar Performance PCM will give you a bit more than this,
but you will get the idea if spending the money would be worth it.

It is also possible to permanetly advance your ignition on a Magnum about 6 degrees on the cheap by slotting the two mounting holes of the CPS (crank position sensor). The cps is located at a difficult position on the rear of the engine just before the transmission flange. The job is not fun, it is possible to damage wiring or get the clearance from cps to the internal notches it reads off.