I have a 96 that I need to do a rear brake job on. What components do I need? I've never messed with drum brakes before, so I don't have much knowledge of how it works. Will everything come in a kit if I get one at the local parts store? I'm sure I can figure it out...just don't want to jump into it before I'm prepared.

 

The only advice i have is do one wheel at a time so you can match up the way that the springs are supose to go. You will know what i mean after you take it off.

 

Watch the springs in the drums. A brake spoon is handy.

 

PITA, all there is to it Take a bunch of pics, and maybe even write stuff down in the order it came off if you've never done it. Lots of parts and springs that have to go on in a certian order.

 

Usually when doing the rear brakes for the first time on a vehicle I get the rebuild kit. A lot of times the springs lose their tension after a while.

Like someone else said above leav ethe other side together and then you can see how to reassemble

 

at autozone they have 2 tools to make your life alot easier... a brake spring tool (looks like an t-handle ice pick withe a sharp U shaped tip) and a retaining spring compresser... (small screwdriver handled tool that has a cup at the end to help retain the spring caps) both of this are handy especially since alot of years makes and models ahve a similar setup... also a few cans of brake cleaner ... and a hanyes or chiltons manual for your truck will come in handy..gives ya a break down of the parts... ALSO the merry christmass thread also has a parts illustration in it IIRC


the best thing is to leave one side alone so it mirros the side you work on so you have a reference point... they can be trickey but take your time and shouldnt be hard

 

I'm assuming you've looked at the brakes, or had them looked at already...if you're going to replace wheel cylinders, soak the brake line going into the cyl. with Blaster several times before trying to remove the line...it still may break tho, just a heads up...the springs are all in a kit, known as a hardware kit...the self-adjusters like to rust and seize up too but can normally be freed up with some Blaster, then a nice coat of silver anti-seize...the self-adjusters, adjuster levers, and related pieces come in a kit also, one per side if needed. As long as the adjusters are ok, it shouldn't be needed...the hardware kit comes with all of the normally replaced items. The drums should be taken to Napa/AutoZone/etc. to see if they need replaced or have them machined. Don't go el cheapo on the shoes...get a premium line that's riveted...cheaper bonded shoes have a problem of seperating from the backing over time. It will funk up your drums quick if that happens.

As stated, do one side at a time, you can reference the other side if needed...also, remove one spring at a time and lay it on the ground in the same direction and location where it came off, basically 'rebuild' the system on the ground, if you know what I mean. Don't be intimidated, it took me quite a few drum jobs to not have to lay everything out like this.

Any other questions, ask away, this is my profession, 3 days from now will be 11 years of auto service.

EDIT: Tools...some pics of what you need...
Hold-down spring tool V

Return spring tool V


These things I've never had any luck with, they're too big to work with easily... V

 

Here is a helpful tip when you are putting those springs on be aware of where your face is. I was helping a friend do his b/c he had never done it before and he was pulling the spring and the spring popped off the pliers he ended up punching himself in the face with what I like to call a death blow. I laughed and fell to the ground. He didnt this it was as funny.

 

My brother tried that with needle nose pliers. Went through his lip and chipped his tooth. Once he got over it, we had a good laugh. Just did a set a couple of months ago. Those tools will help considerably. I did the channelocks and screwdriver method. Springs still had their tension.....

 

LOL!!! Been there done that!!!