Google "bench bleed master cylinder"...an important step if you've drained the master...

 

you will need to bled the mc once you have it hooked back up. Use the same concept that you would on the calipers where the brake lines attach to the mc.

 

If I disconnected the pipes from the mc wouldn't that just put air back in the lines. So then would I just rebleed the brake lines again?

 

What about adjusting the star wheel? I'm not real familiar with it but i know my dad just did it to fix a soft brake pedal. Maybe someone here knows more about it?

 

I found this on the web.


Many times the correct bench bleeding of the master cylinder is an overlooked task. However, this is a MUST and should be performed any time a new master cylinder is installed. If the master cylinder is not bled, it will take you at least twice as long to bleed the system, and then there's no guarantee that you'll have removed all the air from the system.


Before bench bleeding the master, completely install all of your replacement or upgraded brake components, including the master cylinder and brake lines; this is so you can hook up the master cylinder as soon as possible after it has been bench bled, to keep gravity from leeching fluid from the master cylinder during the installation of the other components. After installing the system, remove the master cylinder completely from the vehicle. Master cylinders MUST be bench bled outside the vehicle and without any other components attached. This means that if a new master is equipped with a booster, proportioning valve and plumb lines attached, they must all be removed prior to bench bleeding.

Be sure to place the master cylinder level in a vice and secure it properly. If the cylinder isn't level, not all the air will be able to be removed from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder top and fill with fresh brake fluid to the appropriate level as indicated in the master cylinder-- generally about 1/2 to 1 inch from the top of the reservoir.

Insert a pair of short, looped brake lines or rubber tubing from a bench bleeding kit, (available at nearly all auto parts stores), into the two side ports of the master cylinder. (Note: on dual-ported master cylinders where there are four ports, choose one side and use both ports on that one side to perform the bleed process.) Insert one rubber tube into each of the plastic fittings. and the loose ends should be inserted into the master cylinder reservoir. The plastic tab should be used to hold the tubes in place by slipping it over the reservoir separator and the hoses through the round holes.


Using a wooden dowel, a blunt metal rod, or a large Philips screwdriver, compress the master cylinder plunger with slow, deep strokes. Once the large bubbles have subsided, it should become increasingly more difficult to compress the master cylinder piston. Continue to do so with slow, short strokes at the bottom of the piston stroke until no more bubbles appear. The rubber hoses and plastic fittings may be removed from the master cylinder. Secure the master cylinder top, install the master cylinder and leave enough room on the mounting nuts to allow for some movement of the master. This will allow you some breathing room while screwing in the hydraulic lines to help prevent cross-threading the fittings.

 

So, I decided to bleed my brakes again and as my buddy was pumping the brakes we both heard a really loud popping noise. I wasn't quite sure what it was, but I had a feeling it had to do with the brake booster. So we finished bleeding the brakes again and it just didn't feel right. At least I had a warranty on the booster I had bought about a month ago. So we took it out and took it back to the auto store and the guy looked at it and proceeded to ask me why I painted it and asked if I had my reciept for returning my core. I had no idea what he was talking about and denied the whole thing but I could tell he didn't believe me, then he basically talked down to me and told me how none of the boosters he had were painted. He was very sceptic about letting me return the brake booster and then tried to void the warranty because I didn't bring the check valve. Anyways, he ended up asking the supervisor who allowed me to exchange the painted booster for one that obviously looked new. (unlike the last one which was painted black) So take a look at your stock brake booster and see that it is painted black. So what ended up happening was someone at the auto store so me someone elses core brakebooster. That's why When I installed the new one the last time it still felt soft. They sold me a used, broken, core brakebooster. I was immediately able to tell the difference after I put the new one in. I just wanted to tell everyone about the experience and thank you for your help.

Ken