You've seen that or heard that? I have talked with a professional engine builder about this and he agrees with me that the synthetic in a "high mileage" vehicle causing leaks is an old myth.

 

Ya, synthetic oil does not cause leaks, poor worn out seals cause leaks. If you leak with a synthetic oil, it means that your seals were already bad, just not bad enough for conventional oil to leak through. It's actually the molecular properties of synthetics (molecule size and consistency) that allows it to leak through worn seals more easily then a conventional oil would. Ironically, it is those same properties that make synthetics superior to conventional oil to begin with.

 

Thats what I meant. I did not mean synthetic would cause the seals to go bad. I meant and thought I had stated the synthetic's cleaning properties would clean the dino buildup off of already worn seals and allow the smaller molecular structure of the synthetic to pass through. And yes I have had that happen. 1987 suburban gm350. I ran Dino forever till about 150k, then decided to check out mobile1 and amsoil. Both leaked through the front and rear crank seals. Not because the synth caused them to fail, but because they were already worn and the dino had built up on them and the synth washed away the buildup. I then switched to a high mileage dino made for 4x4's they reconditioned the seals to a point where it didn't leak too bad. A SB350 is always going to though.

 

Heavy off-road use would create problems for sure but she's a pavement queen (well ... maybe the occasional trail). The filters hang down in the wind for a bit of cooling assist. The beauty of the set-up is you can put them anywhere. I picked a frame rail but you can mount them in the bed if you want. The only limit is hose length. I think it came with 30" lines but you don't have to use theirs. I think this is the kit: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

That particular piece looks like it goes between the filter and the engine block ... alowing you to run an external cooler. The kit I used is linked above (Pretty sure). There's a single filter application, too but I can't see the point. If you're going to replace the tiny stock filter with a big one, why not do it with two ... or FOUR?

 

What happened with Fram? Just looking for information. I'll be doing an oil change in about 18 months ... I used to used K&N but couldn't justify the cost. I don't really like single layer paper filters. What does Wix offer?

 

Mobil 1 15w-50, and a Napa oil filter/or Mopar...

300,000 miles using mobil 1 over the last 10 years & ZERO internal mechanical failures

 

Castrol 4x4 synth. blend 10-40, thats what the previous owner used. with a fram high-mileage tough guard filter i think they call it. it seems to work fine, and i also use Lucas oil additive every other oil change.

 

I use Royal Purple 10-W30 with a can of "Engine Restore" at every oil change. I also use the Fram toughgaurd oil filters. no matter what people say about them being weak where the grippy stuff is, doesnt matter, on our trucks, chances of hitting are slim to none. and you hit any oil filter hard enough, it will bust open. The ease of change is definatly worth the alleged risk.

 

Actually guys, it's not punching a hole in them that makes people run. I think fram uses a cardboard bypass valve, atleast the cheaper ones and I think the bypass valve tends to open up and allow dirty oil to run back through the engine.

I like the purolator filters, not the pureones. Smaller filter media just means the oil flow is going to be less. Cleaner oil and less oil flow, or clean oil with good flow? Also purolators and wix both have an anti-drainback "Keeps oil in the filter for startups"
STP and K&N are also some good filters but the info I read about fram and personal experience was enuff for me.

I had a fram leak around where the filter and the threaded end is crimped together, have refused to touch another one. Also, the filter tend to be stuck on when it's time to come off and maybe due to the grip material helping to allow me to over tighten? Or the type of rubber used?

Everyone has their own opinions and choices but atleast take a look a Bob Is The Oil Guy forum and read up on filters, oils, and additives. Just do a search for what your useing. Bob is the oil guy

 

I use Q Full Synthetic 10-30m used pennzoil before but Q is cheaper and it's full synthetic so that's where I went.

I have always used the Fram Tough guard, I haven't really herd anything bad about them but reading all these posts I am a little concerned.

Can anyone elaborate on actual experiences?

Have been thinking about switching to K&N but they are pricey. though I do have the K&N Air Filter I am thinking the flow the filter will provide might justify the cost.

RamChrgr I love that "Engine Restore" I use it on all my vehicles. Ram, Civic & Suzuki GSX-R