I just brought the truck back from the tranny shop. The shift kit is installed along with a new filter and I had the tranny flushed and filled with ATF+4. I also put in a can of Lubegard and had the annual inspection performed. The shift kit was Superior brand, and he used the parts for the heavy duty install. I only had an 18 mile run back from the shop, but the truck ran good. The shifts weren't quite as firm as I thought they would be. (I had a good old 79 Ford with a shift kit and that would snap your neck, but that truck was set up to run.) I didn't have any vibration in the driveline, and I hit the conditions where it used to vibrate before. I need to get some more miles before I can say that the problem is gone, but so far, so good. I hit a hill where I was in OD lockup, running 40 - 45 mph, and was able to step lightly on the throttle and it just picked up speed going right up the hill without vibrating and trying to kick down. It just seemed like the power transfer to the wheel was smoother than it used to be. I didn't get a chance to really step on it and hit WOT, so I'm not sure what it'll be like when I do that. I have to tow the pop-up about 70 miles round trip this weekend, so that will be a good test of the tranny.

The mechanic said the truck may shift differently as I get more miles on it. It will take some time for the new fluid to soak into the clutches, which may change the feel. Overall, I'm pleased so far. I'll post back next week after I get back from the weekend excursion.

 

this sounds like almost the same problem im having. seems to happen most when throttle is pressed and more often when going up a hill. but i dont notice this as a vibration but more of a buzzing noise. i did recently have the tranny serviced and the bands adjusted. went with synthetics too. this problem started after that. after reading you rupdate i think im gonna go talk to the tranny shop and see what he thinks too. thanks, youve given me a few more things to consider.

 

A buzzing noise would be another way to describe what was happening with my truck. I will let you know if it comes back, but I am hoping it is gone. Since I did so many things at one time, it is hard to say what may have eliminated the problem. The shift kit increase the line pressure because of the heavier springs that are installed. The Lubegard is a good additive that the tranny mechanic recommends. Here is the link to that product: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...uid+Supplement I have it in all three of my vehicles. It's interesting that your problem occurred after the band adjustment and the new fluid. If I remember correctly, it may have started on my truck after I adjusted the TV cable. But I adjusted it back, before the recent tranny service, and I still had the buzzing/vibration.

 

I would have to say the buzzing/vibration is gone. I drove the same roads where it consistantly made the noise before and it pulled the hills nice and quiet. I called my friend to thank him for putting in the shift kit and let him know I am happy with the results. He says the shift kit is probably what solved the problem. His diagnosis is that by drilling out the port holes in the valve body, it allows more fluid flow through the openings. Somehow, this solves the problem. Hey whatever, he's the expert on trannies, I just know the truck runs better now. It upshifts sooner when I go have to get off and then back on the gas for a turn and it shifts later when accelerating. That is what I wanted. With the engine mods I've done recently, the ole girl is much improved. I'm not saying its a tire smoking, Corvette eating, running like a raped ape fool, but I can now run the back roads in OD and cruise up and down the hills with just a little throttle and no shifting.

 

"ASH"

In your signature you mention "modded TPS-IAT-CKP". Exactly what did you do to modify them? Always looking for a little extra so am open to this type of suggestion.

Thanks

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For the TPS (throttle position sensor), I backprobed the wires with key on/engine off to check the voltage. Since it read under 0.75 volts, I drilled out the holes and rotated it until the voltage was 0.75 volts. This is supposed to help the throttle response, especially when stomping on it.

The IAT is the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is located in the front passenger side of the intake manifold. I moved the sensor to my round air intake that I installed. Check the pictures in my gallery. The sensor can pick up heat from the intake manifold. By moving it to the air filter housing, it is located farther away from the engine block and supposedly gives a more accurate reading of the incoming air, rather than the block temperature. The cooler air reading will cause the PCM to run a slightly richer fuel mix. There is some debate on how worthwile this modification may actually be.

The CKP mod probably gave me the most benefit. Here is the site that gives a good description: http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/timing.html Once you find the sensor, look between the oil filter element and the tranny dipstick tube on the rear of the engine, remove it and use a rat tail file to slot the holes. I recommend only slotting them on the upper side so you can slide it towards the oil filter. Leave the hole intact on the opposite side, so you can return it to the stock position. Even with the timing advance with the Hypertech set to the 93 octane setting, I was able to run 89 octane gas and the engine didn't ping. So I advance the base timing with the CKP mod, got some more power, and the truck still runs fine on the mid-grade gas. I wouldn't say that everyone can get away with this, but it works for my truck. Also, the electrical connector for the CKP is hiding behind the distributor, but there is enough wire to pull it out past the plug wires to get it unhooked.

All the mods took me some time to do the work. For the IAT mod, I had to open up the wire harness and cut some of the tape holding the wires together to get enough "reach" for the sensor to be moved into the air filter housing. Just figuring out where the CKP sensor is located and how to reach the bolts was a challenge. I can now take it out and reinstall it in about 15 minutes, but the first time took much longer. The TPS was the easiest, since it is out in the open. From what I read, everything you do compliments the other mods. Doing just one thing doesn't make a marked improvement. It may also take some time for the mods to take hold, because the PCM takes some miles to adjust. Overall, I am pleased with everything that I have done. The new air filter housing also helped quite a bit over the stock unit. I didn't want to spend the money for a K&N FIPK unit, even though it may be slightly better. I picked up my unit at Advanced Auto for $25. Considering the cost to benefit ratio, it was definately worthwhile.

 

just to update my bussing noise, its the water pump. it kinda let go on me today, laeking pretty darn good. gonna have to drive the volvo tomorrow. i thought the noise was transmission related because it seemed to make the noise in synch with the shifts, guess i was wrong.