Cross drilled/Slotted Rotors
Anybody have cross drilled and slotted rotors?? I know they are supposed to be used only for racing, and most recomend only slotted for the street, but I was wondering if anyone had both, and if you had noticed any gains or losses with both?? I'm interested in hearing everyones experience with these, either drilled and slotted, or just the slotted. Also heard that there used to be a problem with the drilled rotors cracking at the holes, but haven't seen much of that lately. Anybody got an opinion?? Thanks
I've been running slotted rotors for about a year now, and really love them, though I have had a little vibration lately that I need to check out. But overall, very happy. Braking was really improved over the stock setup. These are Brembo rotors, and I run Akebono ceramic pads, but lots of people speak favorably about Powerslot rotors paired with Hawk pads.
As for drilled rotors, I am not a fan, ecspecially on our trucks that are so heavy to begin with. Drill rotors have far less actual braking surface, and are inherently weaker then standard rotors and even slotted rotors. Since I tow and haul loads, I don't like the reduced braking surface, and I would never risk running a drilled rotor when I am towing or loaded down unless it was made from very high quality material. Quality drilled rotors will have a high nickle alloy content, so look for that if your looking for drilled rotors. Also, a good quality cross-drilled rotor is designed to be cross-drilled and be strong. Most cheap cross-drilled rotors are just standard rotors that are then drilled, not what they were originally designed for, and not going to be very strong. I would avoid cheapo drilled rotors if I was you.
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As for drilled rotors, I am not a fan, ecspecially on our trucks that are so heavy to begin with. Drill rotors have far less actual braking surface, and are inherently weaker then standard rotors and even slotted rotors. Since I tow and haul loads, I don't like the reduced braking surface, and I would never risk running a drilled rotor when I am towing or loaded down unless it was made from very high quality material. Quality drilled rotors will have a high nickle alloy content, so look for that if your looking for drilled rotors. Also, a good quality cross-drilled rotor is designed to be cross-drilled and be strong. Most cheap cross-drilled rotors are just standard rotors that are then drilled, not what they were originally designed for, and not going to be very strong. I would avoid cheapo drilled rotors if I was you.
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I recently heard some horror stories about drilled rotors. In the north at least where we have some serious winter weather, the salt that gets put down has a tendency to rot out the center of the holes that are drilled. This winds up cracking or reaking the rotors. Not good !!
I haven't heard anything bad about the slotted rotors though. I'd probably go that route.
I haven't heard anything bad about the slotted rotors though. I'd probably go that route.
I used some drilled rotors purchased from JC Whitney (cheap) about 2 years ago. After about a year of use, they started cracking between the holes. Because of this I couldn't get anyone to resurface them for me. They didn't want to be liabel if the rotors broke on the lathe. Ended up just buying new standard rotors and haven't had any problems. I would stick with stock or slotted.
Well, y'all knew I'd be chiming in ... I've got `em and I like `em. $60 something a side from Whitney. They're a bit over 2 years old now (2nd set of pads) and no cracking. For the longest time, they were the only brakes I had because the rears sucked so bad. I was going through a set of pads every 12k miles or so. Now that I've done the 1-ton rear mod, I expect the fronts to last a whole lot longer.
Contrary to what y'all may have been told, cross-drilling is NOT for cooling. It is for allowing the gasses generated during hard braking to escape from between the surface of the pad and the rotor, thus eliminating brake fade. Does it work? You bet. I've experienced brake fade (not on my truck) and, I tell you what, it will scare the bejesus out of you. I don't care HOW hard you stand on that pedal ... you will NOT stop. It's like trying to stop on ice. Does slotting alone fix this problem? I don't know. Probably. NASCAR uses slotted rotors so they must do something. Of course, NASCAR has a lot of brake problems, too.
Of course, we don't use salt down here in the winter ... sand only ... and we'll see that maybe 3 times a year. There's some rusting evident in the holes but that's to be expected. It's no more than on the outer rim of the rotor and the hub. I may change them out next pad change since y'all have such horror stories ... they're cheap enough.
... but since Silver is so happy with his slots ... maybe I'll shop around.
Sorry for being so long winded ... and inconclusive.
Contrary to what y'all may have been told, cross-drilling is NOT for cooling. It is for allowing the gasses generated during hard braking to escape from between the surface of the pad and the rotor, thus eliminating brake fade. Does it work? You bet. I've experienced brake fade (not on my truck) and, I tell you what, it will scare the bejesus out of you. I don't care HOW hard you stand on that pedal ... you will NOT stop. It's like trying to stop on ice. Does slotting alone fix this problem? I don't know. Probably. NASCAR uses slotted rotors so they must do something. Of course, NASCAR has a lot of brake problems, too.
Of course, we don't use salt down here in the winter ... sand only ... and we'll see that maybe 3 times a year. There's some rusting evident in the holes but that's to be expected. It's no more than on the outer rim of the rotor and the hub. I may change them out next pad change since y'all have such horror stories ... they're cheap enough.
... but since Silver is so happy with his slots ... maybe I'll shop around.
Sorry for being so long winded ... and inconclusive.
I just purchased Brembo drilled rotors with Hawk pads for my 99 4X4. I read that slotted rotors chew up your pads real quick so I decided to just get the drilled only. I plan to install them next weekend so I will keep you posted on how the combo work together.
Hmm ... another angle I hadn't considered. I might have the worst combination of all.
Where'd you read this? I'd like to check it out. I like to consider as many sources as possible (including personal experience). So far I'm happy with these rotors but you never know. I could chunk one on the way home from work tonight. I'm not made of money (hence the home-brew repairs) but like to drive it pretty hard. So I tend to lean towards the lower cost performance enhancements.
Where'd you read this? I'd like to check it out. I like to consider as many sources as possible (including personal experience). So far I'm happy with these rotors but you never know. I could chunk one on the way home from work tonight. I'm not made of money (hence the home-brew repairs) but like to drive it pretty hard. So I tend to lean towards the lower cost performance enhancements.
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I cant really remember any specific place that I read up on slotted rotors. Really how I made my decision was the pro's and con's based on peoples experiances with slotted vs drilled rotors left on forums, including this one. I just did a general search on drilled/slotted rotors and read everybodys comments. Many of the repeated issues I found with slotted rotors is that they wear down your pads rapidly (10-15k miles of use on pads). Other than that, most people seemed happy with slotted rotors. And I agree with you on the drilled rotors, some people had issues with cracking due to cheap quality - that is why I went with quality Brembo rotors.
i didnt research when i bought my CD rotors.. i just jumped at the clearence sale summit had for their brand of CD rotors..then i all these questions came up about them in the past month.. but hell.. 50 bux a rotor.. even if they do bust this winter.. still cheeper the stock type replacements..after that ill get slotted...
they stop the hell out of me though.. along with my rear discs.. im a stopping machine..
they stop the hell out of me though.. along with my rear discs.. im a stopping machine..
Well, I've heard most of the same things through the years, thats why I was asking about everyones experience with the different brakes. My tire/rim combo is so heavy that I was thinking about upgrading my brakes to get back the little bit of stopping power I lost.
Wish I could afford a big brake kit, but like most I'm not made of money either (still gotta pay my beast off!). I found a company that will give me front and rear rotors with pads for $300, they will drill/slot them or just slotted for that price, and they come with the zinc coating to prevent rust.
As far as I've ever heard, you do burn through pads quicker with the modified rotors, whether drilled or slotted, thats always the way it goes, better performance costs more money. Which kinda blows cuz my stock pads look like there gonna last about 100,000 miles. Got 55,000 on now and at least half the pad left. But I've got this nasty asz urge to stop on a dime, LOL
Well, I'm looking forward to hearing if the Brembo's give better performance compared to stock, so keep us posted, Thanks!
Wish I could afford a big brake kit, but like most I'm not made of money either (still gotta pay my beast off!). I found a company that will give me front and rear rotors with pads for $300, they will drill/slot them or just slotted for that price, and they come with the zinc coating to prevent rust.
As far as I've ever heard, you do burn through pads quicker with the modified rotors, whether drilled or slotted, thats always the way it goes, better performance costs more money. Which kinda blows cuz my stock pads look like there gonna last about 100,000 miles. Got 55,000 on now and at least half the pad left. But I've got this nasty asz urge to stop on a dime, LOL
Well, I'm looking forward to hearing if the Brembo's give better performance compared to stock, so keep us posted, Thanks!



