I have a 95 ram 1500 that I bought from a friend of mine. It has rear anti lock, but it doesn't work. I did notice there are two spaces for relays, one says abs pump relay and the other is an abs yellow light relay. My local dodge dealership says they don't know what those relay spaces are even there for. Can anyone tell me if this could be my problem, or what those relays do? Thanks for the help.

 

sounds like the ABS malfucntioned and your buddy yanked the relays to band-aid the problem.. thos relays are there to make the abs work.. are your rears locking up on your when you hit the breaks?

 

Yes, my rear brakes do lock up. The dodge dealership couldn't tell me if i even needed those relays or not, and like I said when I bought the truck, the relays were already gone so I didn't know if it came from the factory that way, of if someone took them out. If anyone has any other information on if I do need the abs pump relay and the abs warning light relay, and if I do, the part numbers of them, I would very much appreciate it. Thanks.

 

the werid thing is .. if the relay/s for the abs were gone then your speedo should be acting up.. unless the abs is still getting power and just not activating with the abscent relay.. get the 2 relays from a parts store and stick them in.. see what happnes

 

You said a 95' ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?! It just so happens I have one of them too!...lol.


If you know how to retrieve the fault codes (key on-off-on-off-on) write them all down. I have all the factory manuals for a 95'

I also have the diagnostic procedure manual for the 95'.

Our brake system is called the "Kelsey-Hayes EBC-5H"


Feel free to pm or email when you get the codes.

Of course, the smart thing to do IS to start with trouble codes. But if we determine that the electrical part of the brake system is functioning properly, then the problem of brakes locking up is that worthless, combo valve that Dodge used on our trucks. It has limits. And one, MAYBE, two good slams on that brake pedal will rupture seals on that valve to the point where you rears will get almost full line pressure. Causing the rears to lock, because drum brakes are a low pressure device.

We'll get it figured out for ya.....LOL You're another newbie who will be amazed at the help you can get on this site. If you need help on the code retreival process, just ask here. We'll get it listed for ya.


Good luck.

 

Can you tell me a little more about this. I have a similar problem on my 2000 2wd. It's supposed to have rw abs, but they lock. Even at low speeds, like going through a parking lot, when I lightly brake, the back wheels will lock. They are typically real grabby or jerky. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

If that is true about the combination valve what replacement would you reccomend?

 

I have never tried to retrieve my fault codes before, but to do that would I need a stock radio, or where would the codes appear?

 

Here's the 95' manual instructions, verbatim.

To start this function, cycle the ignition switch (turn the key) ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. This will cause any DTC (diagnostic trouble code) stored in the PCM memory to be displayed. The malfunction indicator (check engine) lamp will display a DTC by flashing on and off. There is a short pause between flashes, and a longer pause between digits. All DTC's displayed are two digit numbers, with a four second pause between codes.

An example of a DTC is:

1. Lamp on for 2 seconds, then turns off.
2 Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, and then flashes 1 time.
3. Lamp pauses for 4 seconds, flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 7 times.


The two DTC codes are 41 and 47.

Any # of DTC can be displayed as long as they are in memory. The lamp will flash until all stored DTC's are displayed. 55 = end of test.


.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...............


That's how it done. See if there are any codes, and then I can tell you what they are if you don't have access to them.

My advice is gut the entire brake system and just live line everything.......lol.

Good luck, get back with me. Feel free to PM also. Sometimes it's faster.

 

I DO think it's true about the combination valves. I can mail ya two of them that failed. Same two problems. Fatigued springs, and rolled over O-rings.

My answer is to remove it. I went the distance though. I took it ALL out. And went with a basic, live-lined system. I use an adj prop valve for the rears, and have also installed a hydroboost system. You can imagine how good brakes feel when every mm of pedal travel gets you a reaction. A reaction in both directions. My pedals returns fast as well. That's due to a heavier mc return spring I use a larger bore mc. You can apply my brakes with your big toe. (normal driving). I can lock them up if I feel like red neckin'. I can take away from the rears by turning the prop valve handle. AND.... my valve is located in my cab next to the seat. Every inch of brake line is brand new. I also converted to rear disc.


It sounds like a lot, and it is.lol. I don't mind the money. The end result is a braking system that is very well built, well powered (I also beefed up the ps pump, steer gear, and lines), and is braking at it's best. My friends cannot get over what a heavy duty hydroboost unit will do for braking. There is ZERO lag time with a hydroboost. Pump your vacuum brakes and see how hard they get. They get hard because you cannot vacuum down the diaphrams fast enough.

You can make brakes feel like magic. You give up pedal firmness and add pedal travel. If you are like me, and WANT a firm pedal with not much travel, then you change mc bores. My TOTAL pedal travel to lock up the rears is about 3 inches. I have room left.

Bottom line is, I am always game to grab a wrench and work on my honey....lol.

I love all the new Rams, but everything is electronic upgrades these days. BS..... my 12V is ALL mechanical. That's true horsepower.


Those electronic guys can take their rightful place in the diesel line. Right behind the 12v........



Just my two cents......nothin else.


Take care, all.