OK I WILL START MY TRUCK U IN THE MORNING GET IN DRIVE IT WHEN IM IN OVER DRIVE IT WILL THE DO THIS THE RPM WILL SIT AT AROUND 1.5 THEN THE WILL REV UP TO ALMOST 2 THE BACK DOWN TO 1.5. THIS WILL HAPPEN SOLOWLY SOME TIME IT WILL AHPEN RAPIDLY. KEEEP IN MIND 85% OF THE TIME THIS HAPPEN IN THE MORNIGN OR THE FIST TIME I START THE TRUCK FOR THE DAY. IT ALSO WILL HAPPEN ABOUT 3-4 A WEEK NO ALL THE TIME. TOOK TO TRANSMISSION SHOP THE SAID EVERYTHING WAS OK. THEY SAID IT WAS RUNNIING PRETTY LEAN AND SUGGESTED A CHIP. WELL I GOT THAT AND A TON OF THE OTHER PROBLEMS LIKE LAG AND JUST BEING A LITTLE LAZY WENT AWAY, BUT THERE IS STILL THE RPM PROBLEM IM HAVING. ALSO WHEN THIS HAPPENS IF I THROW IT IN DRIVE FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS AND BACK INTO OVER DRIVE MOST OF THE TIME IT GOES AWAY. THEY ALSO SUGGESTED GETTING A T.P.S. THEY SAID THIS WILL CAUSE A TON OF THOOSE PROBLEMS AS WELL. SO WHAT DOES ANY OF YOU THINK
P.S. SORRY FOR THE SPELLING AT WORK AND WENT TO THROW THIS DOWN FAST.

 

The tps suggestion is correct.

 

The RPM fluctuation problem is either a dirty or bad Idle Air Control motor on the back of the Throttle Body. You can probably fix it by removing the throttle body, removing the sensors, and cleaning it real good with carb cleaner. the IAC has a plunger that goes in the hole in the back of the tb. The plunger and the hole are probably gunked up. The TPS (throttle position sensor) is on the drivers side of the tb. It goes bad a lot also - but the common problem when it goes bad is a "rpm jump" at cruise speed, not at idle. the IAC is where you need to focus with your issue.

Here is a link to some further directions: http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#ResetPCM

You know what - I misread your original post. I thought you meant "get in it in the morning and had an rpm fluctuation". Sorry. I missed the "drive" part. In your case - I would go get a new TPS from your local parts store and do that. A good TB cleaning while your at it wouldn't hurt either. Reset the computer after you change the tps. See the link for how to do this

 

New TPS will fix this problem without a doubt.

 

Didn't help with mine. I am now going to remove the tranny oil pan and check the wires down there while I install new filter/fluids and adjust bands. Next step is VSS.

 

Check this out. I had a guy e-mail me this one from another forum. I sent a copy to steve05 also - I think it is going in one of the "stickys"

I was researching the auto forum and saw your
posting and was shocked to see that your Dodge has the same problem mine
had. I also have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4. I was experience the same
problem you were stating. On a level road at around 65mph the tach was
turning 1800rpms and it would feel like the trans would slip and the
tach would raise to 2300rpm momentarily and return to 1800rpm. It would
also do this going over a bump at 65mph. I went to the local Dodge
dealer and had them look into it. A very long and expensive story made
short, I ended up having the governor solenoid replaced. The slipping
issue still did it when I got the truck back. I gave the truck back to
them and they said that they could not find any problem so they
reprogrammed the PCM and had me come in and go for a ride with the
mechanic to show him when it would slip. The mechanic saw and felt the
slipping and told me that it felt like the "two/four clutch pack" was
slipping and would require a full trans rebuild. After the rebuild the
mechanic took the truck out and it still slipped! After several days of
troubleshooting and a full tank of fuel and the problem being escalated
all the way to Chrysler Tech Support the problem was found. There's a 5
volt signal cable internal to the transmission that tells the torque
converter to lock-up/unlock that rubbed through the insulation and was
momentarily shorting out on the side of the transmission's valve body.
So the slipping was not the transmission it was the torque converter.
On our truck when the drive train is put under the load the manual
operation of the torque converter works normally but when the drive
train is not under a load such as on a level road and maintaining a
speed the electrical operation of the torque converter control circuit
takes over. Well, after that 5 volt control ware was replaced and
secured so this will not happen in the future the truck is running and
shifting great. I paid for the trans rebuild but I'm going to Dodge
through the local district manager and demand the part of the bill that
I paid for labor charges refunded. I should not have to pay for
unnecessary work done to my truck as a result of misdiagnosis.

I would still replace the TPS first to see if that is the problem. A lot easier than dropping the pan.....

 

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP THAT YOU GUYS HAVE GAVE ME IM GLAD I CAME ACROSS THIS SITE. I WILL UPDATE WHEN I GET THE TRUCK BACK THIS WEEKEND. THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

also has anyone ever tried that jet chip to help out the motor if so how did it work

 

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYONE. WHEN I TOOK THE OLD ONE OFF THERE WAS SOMETHING INSIDE THAT WS LOOSE AND THE NEW ONE WAS NOT LIKE THAT. PUT IT ON RESET THE COMPUTER AND 3 DAYS NOW NO PROBLEM. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND SUPPORT.

 

does anybody know how I can access this wire and fix it?