RE: torque specs on differential
I can only give you guys MY way of doing it.
1. MAKE SURE that the wheels are chocked VERY WELL, and the parking brake is engaged also. Once you remove the drive shaft, the rear axle is free to spin. I always chock all 4 tires.
Get white nail polish, grease pencil, a punch, etc. Anything so you can mark the drive shaft position, where it lays in the yoke, the yoke's position on the pinion shaft, etc. You want the drive shaft and yoke, back exactly where they were.
3. Remove the straps that hold the cardan joint into the yoke. (4 bolts). It's also a great time to replace the straps when you reassemble. Any auto store has them. As soon as you remove the drive shaft, wrap tape around the 2 cups on the cardan joint. Last thing you want is to f&%k with that stuff.
4. Remove the nut that holds the yoke onto the pinion shaft. A crowbar helps hold it steady. I hope you have access to a yoke puller. The auto stores rent them if you dont. Now remove the yoke from the pinion shaft.
5. I use this tool.... to pull the pinion seal. Work it carefully so you don't mess up any splines on the pinion shaft. You can usually lift the seal enough to just pry it off with a small flathead. If not, just destroy it. No harm. Just try not to mar the diff case, pinion shaft, shaft threads, etc. You get the jist...lol.
6. Wet the new seal rubber with some diff oil, set it in place, and tap it in gently with a socket if you can. If not, just tap evenly in a star pattern. You will see the seal set in place.
7. Smoke a do, um............Now reinstall everything in reverse. I can't tell you what your specific specs are as far as torque. You'll want to find out for sure though, and adhere to it.
8. Top off the diff.
I may have forgotten a step somewhere, and I would bet the rest of the gang here also has some great input for you.
Just look things over before you start. I can't emphasize the wheel chock thing enough...lol. It's an easy fix, a dirty one, but still easy.