Yea you can still do a remote start on a 5 speed. You would have just do a clutch bypass. Usually you could do this by bypassing the clutch switch. However, make sure you dont leave it in gear when you do this and rem start it lol.

 

BTW - How was pulling the dash on the truck? I gotta do the same with my 99' and was just wondering how long it took you and what kind of trouble it was to do it all. Thanks!

 

I did not remove the dash from the truck, me and my wife decided to pull it as far as possible towards the passenger seat and pass a rubber cord (bungee cord) on from the passenger head handle to the back cabin support - I have a quad cab . The job takes a while to complete, the worst part was the weight of the dash I believe around 50 lbs and no too much clearence between the seat and firewall. The electrical is the easiest that I ever saw with matching colors and plugs, but the ABS computer had a safety clip, be careful when you remove it. I made a list of all steps that I did and I worked very slowly and I took my time , it helped a lot. Important part is to disconect the negative (ground side) for two minutes or more before starting, I think that there is a backup power to the air bags ( capacitors) that has to discharge before you try to work around the dash, so you will not discharge the air bags on your face... The best help I found online is this at the bottom, bad I lost it's link from the web, it is not mine but it worked for me, use at your own risk. Remember that I have a 2001 and the someone has put some wires under there before me. Be careful and if you find that you can not do it, get to a mech. It was going to cost me $1200 to 800. Good luck and be smart.



This applies to 1992-2001 Ram 1500/2500/3500 models (and 2002 Diesel models). The only minor changes would be if it's a 5/6spd or 4x4.

(1) Move seats as far back as they can go (electric seats as well)
(2) Disconnect Battery
(3) Flip up the center console on the bench
(4) Remove Glovebox and disconnect the two plugs behind it (white and orange connectors)
(5) Remove Knee panel (3 screws) and then remove the screws from the metal brace (runs under the column). Disconnect the airbag connector (yellow) on the brace
(6) Remove Airbag Module Cover (2 screws) and disconnect airbag module connector
(7) Loosen the three forward screws on both door sill covers
(8 ) Lift up sill plate and remove kick panel (do this on both sides - disconnect the antenna on the passenger side)
(9) Remove upper dash bolts (8mm)
(10) Disconnect main harness block (white large connector under dash - 10mm - there may be extra plugs in this area - disconnect them if equipped)
(11) Remove brake switch (push pedal in just a little and twist it loose - do NOT push the plunger)
(12) Disconnect vacuum harness for A/C controls (multi-colored lines)
(13) Disconnect parking brake pedal rod (two clips)
(14) Disconnect the PRNDL cable from the column and (if equipped) the white, single wire connector on the right side of the column
(15) Remove the three 15mm steering column nuts (on the firewall)
(16) Remove the two 10mm nuts for the column - drop it down and wedge below the top of the driver seat
(17) Loosen the 13mm bolts on both sides (kick panel area)
(18 ) Lift the dash and rock it loose
(19) Set the right side of the dash on the passenger seat (angled)
(20) Remove the two 10mm nuts from the ground strap (top of A/C box - one in front of the strap and one behind it) and the single 10mm nut on the right/upper corner of the A/C box
(21) You're done inside for now

(22) Drain about 1/2 gallon of coolant out of the radiator
(23) Remove the airhat
(24) Evacuate the A/C system (Officially: Use an A/C recovery system / Driveway Repair - ok...we know where it's going - just don't advertise it)
(25) Loosen the 10mm bolt on the accumulator and remove the lower round bracket
(26) Disconnect the A/C lines from the accumulator (Black and Blue disconnect tools required)
(27) Remove the two PCM bracket nuts (11mm) and slide the bracket (with the PCM) out of the way
(28 ) Disconnect the heater core lines (cut the off if they don't want to go easily - there's plenty of slack on the lines to trim them)
(29) Remove the 11mm nut (was behind the PCM bracket) and the 11mm nut at the middle/top of the firewall (behind the TB)
(30) Remove the A/C box

(32) Hey now...i'm not going to tell you everything. All you need to do now if open the A/C box and replace the evaporator. Check the heater core for signs of leaking. Better to change it now than have to tear the dash apart again.
(33) Reverse the process to reinstall.

Don't forget to clean out the leaves from the blower motor and A/C case. Use some Clorox or Lysol disinfectant spray as well to kill any mold/mildew smells in the A/C case (makes the vents smell pretty too).

Note: You do NOT have to remove anything from the actual dash (not even the dash bezel).

Total time with some experience and air-tools: 1-1.5 hours
Total time with no experience and just hand tools: 3-4 hours
(not including the 20-30 minutes to vacuum/recharge the A/C system)

Have fun

 

Thanks man! I appreciate it. My friend is a mechanic, and i just found out at his christmas party.. (that i dont remember much do to my friend alchohol lol) that hes done a few of em on dodges and is gona give me a hand. He said it wasnt as bad as it seems wich is good haha. Hope ya had a good holiday though!

 

be carefull, if your truck has a cable, 94-96 or97 the cable or box can break. whel pulling dash back to the pass seat look at the top of heater box for this cable. chrysler warrenty time 3.1 hrs

 

I pulled the whole Climate system out of a 97 2500 this summer...

replace heater core, and A/C core as that was leaking. Put the whole thing back together, only to find the new heater core was defective.. took it all out again, replace Heater core, everything worked fine..

First time took me about 5 hours to get the whole dash, on the garage floor, and the black blower box out of the truck.

Second time.. I did it in about 2.5 hours, and had the whole thing back together in about 1.5 hours..

I felt, after doing it the first time, it was pretty darn easy thing to do...

Just take your time and you will be fine..

only thing I needed a second person for was to lift the dash out, and reinstall the climate box, then lift the dash back in again.. other than that, I did it all myself.

Karl

 

Daytime Running Light module?

 

Thank you for your replies. The black tick wire that comes from the box and is disconnected goes back to the driver's door with the other wires (speakers, power windows...), I think its kind of strange since all others boxes have the Chrysler logo printed or at least some part number. Thank you for your help.

 

Ohhhh that's a spare part, so long the truck runs fine, you don't need it but if it's attached, leave it there.
You can try and find the cable that connects to it, but most likely it does not exist or you will not find it.

I always find stuff like that on my vehicles, weird.

Especially interesting when, after a repair I have something left over, and the car runs great and I never can figure out where it goes.

I have a box full of these spare parts, and I don't know the name of any of them. Bits and pieces, I dunno...
Maybe it's stuff that normally gets taken out if you were to take your car through a professional weight reduction stage?

p.s.: My closest guess is that it is part of a tow package brake-controller...