If you've already put so much time to remove and clean tb and iac, just replace the iac. It's $50-$80. Best result, no more problems, worst, you've replaced something that probably needed replacing anyways. I replace my IAC after the same problem and I used the Mopar combustion chamber cleaner as well. No more problems, runs great and can spend more time driving than fixing

Good luck

 

Taking the time to understand and solve a problem is more productive than just arbitrarily replacing parts. I cleaned up the IAC on my truck when I rebuilt the engine and it runs great. I'll bet the IAC is the one my truck had off the assembly line and it now has 121K miles on it.

 

Had the same issue with my IAC. I cleaned it a second time, checked the connections between the IAC and the wiring harness and found they were all good. I put di-electric tune-up grease on the connection and put it back together. No problems since. Another forum member did the same thing and had the same result as me.

Only costs about a buck to try it before spending the $50 or so for a new IAC.

 

well i remove dthe IAC and left it plugged in and had my wife turn the key,the little brass or copper thing didnt move,and like the moron i am i turned it over to see how it ran with out the IAC in it,it cranked rite over and stalled but would stay running when i left my foot on the gas.them my CE light came on{i imagine because i cranked it over with the IAC not hooked up,i went and bought anew IAC,installed it and the CE light was still on so i just un hooked my battery and hooke dit back up and that got rid of the light...seems to be fine now,the RPM tack dont flucuate at all when just idleing and it did even after i just cleand th eold IAC,now it holds steady and goes up and down smooth when i rev it or let off the gas..the day before yesterday i took it in and had em scan it and they said there where no codes and he drove it for about 30min and said he sees what im talking about with the RPMs dropping when he let off th egas and said all sighns point to a dirty or malfunctioning IAC and i told him i cleaned it and he said replace it and i guaruntee itll fix the problem...and he didnt charge me a thing for looking at my truck for over an hour!..i prolly should have just taken his word for it when i told me to replace the IAC but i was curiouse to see if it was working..i dont guess i hurt anything by making the CE light come on.
like i said im a complete rookie when it comes to working on these newer vehicles but i still want to learn how..if somthing goes wrong with it i want it fixed but i dont want to just start replacing parts,i wanna know what that part does and why it went bad what i need to do if it happens again in the future...trial and error i guess.............you guys have been a great help and i appreciate it.

 

I am having the same problem with my 98 RAM..........I have replaced the IAC twice and still have a problem while it is cold. I can start it and run fine...travel a little bit, turn it off, restart and it will die. I have to hold my foot on the gas until it warms up. After that it runs fine. I have already replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs and IAC (twice). what should I do

 

You replaced the IAC but did you clean the throttle body as well?

 

check your tps... maybe it thinks your giving it throttle so the pcm is telling your iac to close. maybe

 

If you are running the truck an it runs fine untill its turned off, does it just turn over an not fire? Becuase if thats the case it may be a cam shaft positiong sensor.

My IAC acts up when my battery has died an i get a jump. It dose just fine after its been driven for a bit. Im not sure why the battery going dead would cause that???