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Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Default Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

Does anyone make a Lightweight aluminum driveshaft for the rwd 1500? I cant immagine how much the stocker weighs.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

stock actually wasnt that heavy when i changed my u-joints i was actually able to get it up there myself, we took it down and i was getting ready to be crushed by a big peice of metal when i got it out i was like hmm not bad, lighter than a bag of dog food i think iirc.. anyways never heard of there being an aft. mkt. dshaft, just make sure its balanced properly and it should be just fine, if anything build the motor up i think the stock driveshaft is prly your best bet. but dont take my word for it wait for someone who knows what there talking about if u want.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

ORIGINAL: Ram_Sport

stock actually wasnt that heavy when i changed my u-joints i was actually able to get it up there myself, we took it down and i was getting ready to be crushed by a big peice of metal when i got it out i was like hmm not bad, lighter than a bag of dog food i think iirc.. anyways never heard of there being an aft. mkt. dshaft, just make sure its balanced properly and it should be just fine, if anything build the motor up i think the stock driveshaft is prly your best bet. but dont take my word for it wait for someone who knows what there talking about if u want.
im just lookin for weight savings in the driveline. every 10lbs of rotating mass removed is another tenth at the strip.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 04:12 PM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

The formula is
100lbs of static = .1 off ets (1/4m)
25lbs rotating = .1 off ets

This formula does not come into effect untill the vehicle is under 4000lbs (w/driver) and running ets of 13.0 or better.

I have a 60lb wt loss going from stock Indy rims w/GYE GTIIs to Weld draglite rims and ET streets (fronts 68lbs). Final ratio increases to 418 from 392 as well as traction increases greatly. According to your formula I would be looking at about .75 second et reduction when in fact I would see .25-.3 off ets. (when NA/ mild 360)


 
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

the driveshaft is actually really light. its just the balancer on the end that adds all the weight, its very thin, i wish it was thicker, i guy on pavementsucks lightly hit it on a rock and it ripped it in half like cutting a soda can with a razor knife. if your looking for weight reduction i would start else were
 
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 05:12 AM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

ORIGINAL: RM_Indy

The formula is
100lbs of static = .1 off ets (1/4m)
25lbs rotating = .1 off ets

This formula does not come into effect untill the vehicle is under 4000lbs (w/driver) and running ets of 13.0 or better.

I have a 60lb wt loss going from stock Indy rims w/GYE GTIIs to Weld draglite rims and ET streets (fronts 68lbs). Final ratio increases to 418 from 392 as well as traction increases greatly. According to your formula I would be looking at about .75 second et reduction when in fact I would see .25-.3 off ets. (when NA/ mild 360)




thanks, its been a while since iv played with the math.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

While it is a great idea to consider weight reduction for both acceleration and fuel economy...keep in mind that for acceleration it
NOT REALLY WEIGHT
of driveshafts, wheels, tires, internal transmission parts.

What slows acceleration is a more complicated thing called:

"Moment of Rotational Inertia"

Engineers and Scientists use the letters
Iw
to refer to this.

Different driveshaft designs (or wheels)
can weigh exactly the same on your bathroom scale...but on your vehicle they will slow it down differently.

It is the placement of the weight away from the center of rotation that counts.

Bicycle racers sometimes measure this themselves. You can hang a wheel from a thin metal rod (also known as a torsion bar)

Then you twist the wheel against the springy-ness of the rod it is hanging from and let it rock back and forth...kinda like the insides of an old fashioned mechanical wristwatch.

By timing the back and forth rocking with a stopwatch you can measure the Iw of that rotating part.

Lower Iw is good.

Volunteers have written a description on Wikipedia that is better than mine above:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_inertia

You might be interested that scientists know that Einsteins theory of 'big things' like planet movement has something wrong with it, and the other theory of tiny things called 'Quantum Theory' also has something wrong with it.

In searching for a 'unified theory' that would correct both, scientists so far have found that the laws of 'Inertia' and 'Momentum' seem to still be correct in all cases, and these big thinkers are counting on Conservation of Momentum to be the 'foundation' of some new theory.




 
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Default RE: Lightweight aluminum driveshaft

ORIGINAL: HankL

While it is a great idea to consider weight reduction for both acceleration and fuel economy...keep in mind that for acceleration it
NOT REALLY WEIGHT
of driveshafts, wheels, tires, internal transmission parts.

What slows acceleration is a more complicated thing called:

"Moment of Rotational Inertia"

Engineers and Scientists use the letters
Iw
to refer to this.

Different driveshaft designs (or wheels)
can weigh exactly the same on your bathroom scale...but on your vehicle they will slow it down differently.

It is the placement of the weight away from the center of rotation that counts.

Bicycle racers sometimes measure this themselves. You can hang a wheel from a thin metal rod (also known as a torsion bar)

Then you twist the wheel against the springy-ness of the rod it is hanging from and let it rock back and forth...kinda like the insides of an old fashioned mechanical wristwatch.

By timing the back and forth rocking with a stopwatch you can measure the Iw of that rotating part.

Lower Iw is good.

Volunteers have written a description on Wikipedia that is better than mine above:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_inertia

You might be interested that scientists know that Einsteins theory of 'big things' like planet movement has something wrong with it, and the other theory of tiny things called 'Quantum Theory' also has something wrong with it.

In searching for a 'unified theory' that would correct both, scientists so far have found that the laws of 'Inertia' and 'Momentum' seem to still be correct in all cases, and these big thinkers are counting on Conservation of Momentum to be the 'foundation' of some new theory.




You bring up a good point. Its not that that its one or the other that is the cause for drag on the driveline. They both play a factor. I dont know how much Iw really affects an automobile, as I have never taken a look at the idea.
 
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