Misfire help
i was getting misfire codes the dealer did a full tune up and it was still doing it.one day i saw my exhaust manifold glowing red and its been in the dealer since with cracked heads and a stuck exhaust valve. they said the engine was ran soo hot that the valve was sucked flat on the bottom only 50k mi. they determined this with a compression check
on me truck the fuel filter is part of the pump assembly so it would cost 225 dollars for a filter . A fuel pressure test turned ot to be ok fo problem with fuel flow. The pcm in causing my motor to run lean. Because i have no cat. So i unplugged me rear o2 sensor so its running fine now, just burning a lot of gas.
put a good cat back in. these cats dont restrict like they did in the 80,s. as soon as os are screwed with anything is game on the fuel system. by the way, the fuel filter/ pressure regulator is availible on it own, my cost on these is like 100 bucks.
the idea of replace the cheapest first, in most cases cost more than going to the dealer first.i perfer knowledge over a dart board.
the idea of replace the cheapest first, in most cases cost more than going to the dealer first.i perfer knowledge over a dart board.
ORIGINAL: topsites
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* When troubleshooting and unsure of the cause, always start by replacing the cheapest stuff first *
Relays could be a problem...
To eliminate this, find the relay box (mine's behind the battery, on the drivers side), and open or remove the cover.
Then pull one relay off either end of the row (there's 4 or 5 or 6, don't remember).
Hold this one or set it aside.
Pull the second one and plug it in where the first one was (they are all identical anyway).
Pull the third one and plug it in where the second one was.
And so on, until you've pulled and relocated the last one, which is where you now plug the first one in.
You have, in effect, just rotated all the relays by one location.
Now: If any relays were bad, you still don't know which one it is BUT your problem will relocate, thus isolating the issue to the relays. If so, you start by replacing one, then the other, and so on.
If nothing changes, it's not the relays, blam, eliminated this possibility for free.
Then I'd replace the fuel filter, and the air filter as well.
If that doesn't fix it, that's two less possible causes eliminated for $25.
There is one thing I've had happen to me a few times, and that is the gap on a plug went wild.
I don't know why they do this, but you have to check the gap.
Or, since you're already pulling them, put some double platinum plugs in it (gap to .035) and then that maintenance is done.
By now, you're out $60 - $70 in parts.
If the problem persists, at least some maintenance is getting done.
Cap and rotor + spark plug wires would be next, and I'd spring for some high performance stuff here myself.
That'll set you back around $75 for 8mm Taylor wires and an Accel HP cap and rotor.
Next is the ignition coil, at least check the wiring leading to it, then replace it.
By now you're likely out a total of $200 - $300, all in parts that if they did not need replacing, sure didn't hurt to do it.
If all of the above does not fix your problem, at least it probably runs better LOL.
..
* When troubleshooting and unsure of the cause, always start by replacing the cheapest stuff first *
Relays could be a problem...
To eliminate this, find the relay box (mine's behind the battery, on the drivers side), and open or remove the cover.
Then pull one relay off either end of the row (there's 4 or 5 or 6, don't remember).
Hold this one or set it aside.
Pull the second one and plug it in where the first one was (they are all identical anyway).
Pull the third one and plug it in where the second one was.
And so on, until you've pulled and relocated the last one, which is where you now plug the first one in.
You have, in effect, just rotated all the relays by one location.
Now: If any relays were bad, you still don't know which one it is BUT your problem will relocate, thus isolating the issue to the relays. If so, you start by replacing one, then the other, and so on.
If nothing changes, it's not the relays, blam, eliminated this possibility for free.
Then I'd replace the fuel filter, and the air filter as well.
If that doesn't fix it, that's two less possible causes eliminated for $25.
There is one thing I've had happen to me a few times, and that is the gap on a plug went wild.
I don't know why they do this, but you have to check the gap.
Or, since you're already pulling them, put some double platinum plugs in it (gap to .035) and then that maintenance is done.
By now, you're out $60 - $70 in parts.
If the problem persists, at least some maintenance is getting done.
Cap and rotor + spark plug wires would be next, and I'd spring for some high performance stuff here myself.
That'll set you back around $75 for 8mm Taylor wires and an Accel HP cap and rotor.
Next is the ignition coil, at least check the wiring leading to it, then replace it.
By now you're likely out a total of $200 - $300, all in parts that if they did not need replacing, sure didn't hurt to do it.
If all of the above does not fix your problem, at least it probably runs better LOL.
what you need to re-adjust
after loosening the distributor bolt and moving it:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf
after loosening the distributor bolt and moving it:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf
TH PROBLEN WITH REPLACING THE CAT IS I NOW HAVE TWIN PIPES SO I WOULD HAVE TO BUY TWO, AND NOW MATER HOW YOU LOOK AT IT TWO NEW CATS WILL FLOW LIKE ONE FROM THE 80'S. WHAT I REALLY WANT TO DO IS UPGRADE THE INJECTORS BUT I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY FOR MY DODGE (CHECKED JEGS AND SUMMIT). iNJECTORS WOULD HELP SUPPORT FETURE MODS, BUT I WILL NEED A COMP. TUNE ANY SUGG. ON ETHIER A REFLASH PROGRAMER? AS FAR AS THE CAT BEING GONE I WAS GOING TO ORDER A MIL ELIMANTOR FROM FASTMAN HAS ANYBODY USED THESE. ALSO DO THE MAKE A STROKER KIT FOR THE 318.
ORIGINAL: timwag2001
where can you get a filter for $25?
where can you get a filter for $25?
Shouldn't cost more than 10-15 dollars.
And the paper element for the air filter, 5 bucks.
Try Advance Auto Parts, or Autozone.
Don't tell me you get parts from the stealer.
As for the missing, my '86 does that, but at all rpm ranges and depending on throttle setting (thou more throttle generally fixes it, as does less).
It's more like a hesitation, a cough, or a sputter.
Very intermittent, but it lasts maybe a second and it's like a total loss of power, then it gets right back up.
Since it's so old, I've never bothered much with it but I figure it's either a vacuum leak, or an internal transmission issue translating to an imminent failure warning, so I just take it real easy.
You might consider changing your trans fluid and filter, that might help.
Because if that fluid has never been changed and it's all clogged up with dirt, a belt could slip at times.
p.s.: Also, my 318 in the '86 has a HEI system so you can NOT put a HighPerformance ignition coil in there.
The 95's 360 otoh does not have the HEI system...
But, if you got a mallory or other HI coil, I'd put the stock one back in and see if that fixes it.
It's more like a hesitation, a cough, or a sputter.
Very intermittent, but it lasts maybe a second and it's like a total loss of power, then it gets right back up.
Since it's so old, I've never bothered much with it but I figure it's either a vacuum leak, or an internal transmission issue translating to an imminent failure warning, so I just take it real easy.
You might consider changing your trans fluid and filter, that might help.
Because if that fluid has never been changed and it's all clogged up with dirt, a belt could slip at times.
p.s.: Also, my 318 in the '86 has a HEI system so you can NOT put a HighPerformance ignition coil in there.
The 95's 360 otoh does not have the HEI system...
But, if you got a mallory or other HI coil, I'd put the stock one back in and see if that fixes it.







