I have a 99 dodge Ram 1500 (318, Auto, single cab, power everthing, remote start, ram air, timing advanced to 38 total timming i think?, no cat, Flowmaster Single 3 inch in dual 2.5 inchout muff. exits like the Ford lightning ( Yes i know why copy a ford).)
Know heres the problem under normal driving conditions it runs fine. with no problems, but gas on it and there the problen. Under full throttle at about 4000 and 4800 it misses not a constant miss, but more like a single misfire at each rpm (listed above). After I cut My cat off my air fuel ratio gauge started reading lean (just figured it was more air flowing trough it). The other day I pulled the plugs (definate rust color) So It was running lean. To fix that problem I unhooked the rear o2 sensor. Helped some. I hooked up a one wire o2 sensor to me gauge so I could see if its running rich or lean. Its reading in the normal range. Its got new plugs (as of today). The miss isn't as bad know but still there.
Any body got any suggustions

 

Could be a bad/plugged injector. What about your plug wires? Are they resonably new, or are they originals?

 

good luck.I changed plugs, wires, cap, and rotor on mine. CEL went off for a while then came back on for a misfire again. Then it went off by itself stayed off for a couple weeks came on for a day then went back off.

 

The position of the distributor does not affect ignition timing on the 5.2/5.9 V8s, but it does affect fuel injector sync.

If you loosened the bolt on the distributor and advanced it,
that could be causing your misfire.

 

Actually, the position does matter. I learned this the hard way when I reinstalled my engine and didn't have the rotor bug lined up with the CYL 1 mark on the CKP (which is inside the distributor); however, you do have a point that this could be the cause of the misfire. Another misfire symptom is a stuck valve.

 

My inspection guy also said our trucks are big on cracking heads and that might be my problem. I think if it was that thought the light would never go off

 

plugs wires are new my engine is not trowing on codes it is passing all obdII scanes. With a timimg light it Is Reading total timing is 38 degrres btdc. Im leaning toward injectors. im trying to fing out what me stock size is so i can upgrade cant find that info anywhere. Accored to before and after reading it did advance me ign. timming to computer can anly correcr upvto 8 degrees

 

what size are the stock injectors

 

..

* When troubleshooting and unsure of the cause, always start by replacing the cheapest stuff first *

Relays could be a problem...
To eliminate this, find the relay box (mine's behind the battery, on the drivers side), and open or remove the cover.
Then pull one relay off either end of the row (there's 4 or 5 or 6, don't remember).
Hold this one or set it aside.
Pull the second one and plug it in where the first one was (they are all identical anyway).
Pull the third one and plug it in where the second one was.
And so on, until you've pulled and relocated the last one, which is where you now plug the first one in.
You have, in effect, just rotated all the relays by one location.
Now: If any relays were bad, you still don't know which one it is BUT your problem will relocate, thus isolating the issue to the relays. If so, you start by replacing one, then the other, and so on.
If nothing changes, it's not the relays, blam, eliminated this possibility for free.

Then I'd replace the fuel filter, and the air filter as well.
If that doesn't fix it, that's two less possible causes eliminated for $25.

There is one thing I've had happen to me a few times, and that is the gap on a plug went wild.
I don't know why they do this, but you have to check the gap.
Or, since you're already pulling them, put some double platinum plugs in it (gap to .035) and then that maintenance is done.

By now, you're out $60 - $70 in parts.
If the problem persists, at least some maintenance is getting done.

Cap and rotor + spark plug wires would be next, and I'd spring for some high performance stuff here myself.
That'll set you back around $75 for 8mm Taylor wires and an Accel HP cap and rotor.

Next is the ignition coil, at least check the wiring leading to it, then replace it.
By now you're likely out a total of $200 - $300, all in parts that if they did not need replacing, sure didn't hurt to do it.

If all of the above does not fix your problem, at least it probably runs better LOL.

 

where can you get a filter for $25?