Again thanks to all. I got MSD coil, wires and put in a fresh set ofAutolites. Tight spots to move around in and no the TSB went out the window. If it starts acting up, I'll comply. I'm hoping the heavier wiresdon't care.Running like a top. Bring on the rain.

Todd

 

good work

 

Hi, my ram is idling rough, so I'm going to check the wires and see if the plug wires are in the right order, inspect the plug wires further, and check the distributor, rotor, and cap...
But one thing, after some looking, I finally found the distributor, and am wondering...how am I supposed to get to that thing short of laying on top of the engine or taking the engine out? I just can't believe how it's so crammed in back there...how did you all get to it to replace it?

Obviously, I'm a noob to cars, this being my first.... But I figure if I can build robots and 2-stroke nitro rc's, I can do relatively simple maintenance on my truck, lol.

 

Hey Cvec7 wish you luck, the job sucks but that's just an opinion of an old man with a back problem. I basically had to do just what you said, lie across the engine to make it easier to get to. Of course taking the air box off is necessary to give some room. Iput some old blankets on the engine and grill for protection and also used them tosupporta piece of plywood I had sticking out the front of the truck so I could kinda lie flat. You probably won't have to do this but my back insisted on it. Having always worked on either my cars, trucks or boats, engine work has come easy for me. This job was a royal pain in the ***. Getting to the distributor was tough for me. What I eventually did was time consuming but made the job easier. I labeled all the wires with a piece of tape on both ends. I marked the distributor cap at the number one terminal. (doesn't matter what you call the number one wire just keep everything in order. I used the left front as one, right front as two). I overkilled itand also drew a diagram on a piece of paper and took a snapshot with my digital camera of the distributor cap. (remember I'm retired and have nothing but time and a great shop to work in). I then pulled the wires off the cap, removed the cap and rotor, marked the new cap at the same number one terminal position andput in the new rotor and cap. I then took off each wire starting at the front cylinders on each side and measured them and wrote it down on the paper in case the size was off later and sizedeach wire with the new wire. I coated each plug and terminal with dielectric grease forsome extra waterproofing and easy on/off beforeIreplacedeach wireexactly how I took it offusing mylaptop photo of the cap as necessary. As I said earlier, overkill but what the hay when I turned the key, it started. I did not follow the TSB and figured my '97 lasted this long and I was replacing the wires with new, thicker and hopefully better MSD wires on Timwag2001's suggestion. With the wires done, I replaced the coil and plugs, started it up, cleaned all the knuckles gouges on my handsand drove down to Codfish Bob's aka Seabreeze Cafefor a boiler maker. All in all, it's just time consuming and a little frustrating. If I had to do it over again, I would have gone to Codfish Bob's first.

 

Whether the wires are the culprit can not be determined with certainty until they have been replaced, but since you have never performed this repair, it would be an advisable route to follow.

An important piece of equipment in this transaction is the cap and rotor: If you'll be tearing into the wires, you might as well replace this $15 part which could also be the culprit (more so if this, as I suspect, has also never been replaced).

If you want to do it right, then don't buy cheap OEM or aftermarket wires, but get an 8mm set such as the ones made by Accel, or Taylor. A set of 8mm Taylor wires runs around $60, not sure about the Accel's but I suspect $80'ish and the two companies both make a fine wire (so if you can find Taylor wires, it would be the more economical but equally beneficial alternative).
On the cap and rotor, I would spring the $15-$18 for an Accel model, which is also high performance.

While the high performance parts do cost more, they first make your truck run like w-o-w and second they last considerably longer as a worn set of high performance parts is still as good as the standard when they first get to that point, actually turning the expense into economy in the long run. Further, IF you can resist stepping on the throttle after you've regained some power (and then some), having increased the spark could result in fuel savings (but you need a light foot on the throttle or it doesn't help).

 

I'm with topsite, It pays to add performance parts. Better hp/trq,mpg, lifespan and they usually look much better than oem junk.
Changing the cap n rotor is a PITA but there are a few otherperformance parts that you canadd thatalso make the job a bit easier.
Get yourself some electric fans and remove the shroud and viscous fan. That wayyou can stand between the rad and pulleys when swapping the cap n rotor. M1 intake manifoldbesides not having to worry about your plenum leaking ever again you can also see and get at the cap a bit easier

 

I had a 77 F-250 with a 460 in it. After a soaking rain, there would be condensation under the cap. And it usually cracked too.


Good luck with your ride.

 

rm indy, my radiatior overflow and windshield washr fluidresovoirs are attached to the fan shroud. i've got an electric fan but i had to hack up the shroud to keep the bottles. what did you do with them? i really want the shroud out all together.