i just bought a rough country custom fabricated suspension lift, with add-a-leaf in the rear and new coil springs in the front. I also bought 35x12.50X15 on mickey thompson classic II 15x10.I have a 1998 club cab slt laramie 1500. i put the lift in with a friend, and when we mounted the new tires on it seemed ok. Until i made any sharp turns, it rubs on the inside of the fenderwell. But not just on the plastic fenderwell but the actual body. Everyone is telling me to put a body lift but i dont want one, but it is the safest solution? if i grind the body i am going to have to go like 2 inches in and with the fender still be supported with out all that metal, and what would i cover it with? fender flares was an option but i figured it would end up rubbing again. Does anyone know a place that sells 1.5 inch body lifts because i am assuming that would solve my problems? or do you have any better ideas? please help soon seeing as i spent 1100 on these tires and rims and i can not have them rubbing.

 

I didnt realize rough country made "custom" lift kits.
You must have the only one.

3 inches isnt enough lift to fit 35s.
throw 3" body lift in and be done with it.
you could also try a rim with different back spacing which would be fine for road driving.

 

Looks like I'm following GOD around the forum. I would have to agree again. Just put the 3" body lift on. You will need it. Look at my pics. I have 35's with a 3" susp. and 3" body. The tires at full turnhave a couple of fingersof spacing in the corners. Have enough room to move around and not hit. The 3" suspension kit was good for 33's.

 

Nope, i am not putting a three inch body. That would defeat the purpose of getting the suspension lift in the first place. And it was custom fabricated as in i bought it and had to coils adjusted and leaf springs redone. My options are grinding the fenderwell or 1.5 body, that is as high as i will go. Trucks look stupid with the bumper gap and the frame sticking way down there. So i am asking which one would be better. 1.5 body blocks or grindin the fender and fender flares.

 

stubborn bastard, come here for advice and then refuse to aknowledge the suggestions of other people

 

theres a two inch body and i THINK a one inch body, but ive never heard of 1.5 inch body lift.

and if your worried about the looks of a body lift, the gap is not very noticible on these rams. look at some other people's picture gallery and you'll see what i mean.

 

I have a 95 with a SkyJacker 3" and run 35" Trxus MTs on the 16" steel streetlock wheel. It's something like a 9 or 9.25 wide wheel I think. I trimmed the front and rear plastic fender liners and 'adjusted' the fender seam on the back of the well. When you trim some of the plastic on the rear of the fender you'll see what I'm talking about. It sticks out like a blade to your tire. I used a slightly BFH to 'adjust' it flat. No rub at full lock or when wheeling.

 

I remember hearing of a solution that may help you. I am new to this forum so excuse my ignorance if I use wrong terminology. There is a company that sells what I will call a "bracket" that attaches to your axel. Instead of positioning the frame of your truck under/at the axel level, if positions the frame at on top of the axel giving you about a 1.5 to 2 inches of lift. Again, I don't know the proper terminology but I think you can visualize what I am talking about. Perhaps others on this forum know what I am talking about. Hope this points you in a direction.

 

you can run 315's (34 1/2) on a 3 inch lift on STOCK BACKSPACING wheels.. they will rub a slight bit though.. you can barely notice body lifts on these trucks.. after the lift the frame still doesnt stick down as much as a fords or chevys. and you dont have a gap in the fenderwells either. the rear bumper you can raise by just drilling new holes

 

Sounds like you are describinga "spring over" setup and could introduce a lot of new issues for him plus it is not really a simple bolt on solution. Plus it would not address the front end which uses coils. He might be able to get a bit more lift with blocks in the back and spacers in the front but this would really start to push the geometry of the truck with the added suspension lift.

If it just rubs at full lock and you don't want to grind/cut you could put a couple of washers behind the steering stops. You lose some turning radius, but with a lifted truck running 35's I doubt that would be much of a concern.