I know that a couple of you have made your own cable operated actuaters for the shift for in order to bypass the crappy CAD set-ups on these trucks. I've now got a problem and I'm getting vacuum, but I don't know that it's really enough. Shift fork and everything internal looks good, I'm going to be taking the diaphram out in the next little bit to check it, but I figured since I'm into this already I'd like to prevent future problems as well. I know that Tani made one, but I pm'd and haven't received a response.

Long story short, is there anyone that has a link saved to some instructions on how to do this and a parts list?

TIA!

 

sorry ive been mad busy lately. i think i did alittle write up on it with some pic. its kinda hard to say exactly what to do. you kinda just have to be brave and creative and wing it. mine works perfectly.

first thing i did was took the cad housing out. then i pulled the C clips off the rod that the shift for sits on. then i went to the hardware store and got a spring that fits over that rod. place that in between to when u let the shifter out it goes back to unlocked. then i drilled ( i think it was like 3/4" ) hole in the housing on the oposite side of the diafram. i used a cable from Myers Snow plow, ill see if i can get a part number for it. then i drilled a smaller hole in the shift fork itself and put the cable through. u need to think up a way to keep it attacked. i just crushed a washer around it. then where the cable comes through the housing you need to pack JB weld around it to hold it in place. then put it back together. then run the cable up into the truck somehow and connect it to some kind of lever, i used a cheap one for a tractor.

 

heres some pics half way down the page

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/...+own+posi+lock

 

if you think its a vacume problem.. do this.. up underneath coming out of the tcase there is two soft lines that turn into two hardlines that go up to the CAD system to the front axle.. one section from the hard lined section (right at a slight bend) was rotted and rusted through.. leaking out vacume and causing all sorts of problems for me..

check that line out.. or even just replace it.. . IIRC the dealer (dealer only part) charged me 30 bux for the whole line from t-case to axle..

just food for thought

goodluck

 

all 4 bolts on my CAD snapped off when i went to take it off lol.. had to change a axle seal sooooo.. its still leaking haha

 

Hey thanks Tani. I do have a couple questions still though. What did you do about your old vacum lines? Does the switch to turn the 4WD light on still work? and just to clarify (this is the stupid question part) the collar is at the left when engaged and to the right when disengaged, right?

Thanks for the advice as well Shott, I may try to find a vacuum leak tomorrow, but I am just uneasy about the whole CAD system anyway and am just thinking of getting rid of it. If it is the diaphram in the actuator, the dealer wants $248 for the part, and that is definitely not worth it to keep a poorly designed vacuum system around IMO. If I can easily locate a leak though, I may consider changing the lines. I just don't want to mess with it much. I'm sure ya'll understand why.

BTW, I've heard of using a small piece of the vacuum tube as a sort of 'stethoscope' to try and listen for the leak. Is there anything else I can try? I know the soapy water is for air leaking out, but do you think it would do anything for a vacuum leak?

 

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge400_prnt.html

 

yes that correct. the light doesnt work but if you really want it im sure u can think of a way to make it work. its only a push button. the vacumme lines i just left on the diafram and then pinched the hard lines shut.

 

I had already looked at all the vacuum lines before even posing this question and they all look good (no obvious leaks), but it don't know how to check if it's getting enough vacuum. It seems kinda weak when I put my finger over it to see. Anyone know how much it should be pulling?

If I can't get the vacuum problem fixed by today, I'll be doing the custom posi. Tani, where did you route your cable to allow for suspension drop and keep away from heat and moving parts? I'm planning to just run along the old vacuum lines until the top of the tranny and get into the cab from there.

 

i've been thinking about this too, but will probably go with the kit..
here's the best price i can find $157.
http://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lok-PSL40...p;s=automotive

instructions. as i understand it, when you engage the axle the 4wd light will come on.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/posilock.php?p=1

how to continue to use the CAD with alternative, switchable vacuum.
http://dodgetrucks.org/forums/viewto...light=posilock

more info.
http://dodgetrucks.org/forums/viewto...light=posilock
http://dodgetrucks.org/forums/viewto...light=posilock
http://dodgetrucks.org/forums/viewto...light=posilock
http://dodgetrucks.org/forums/viewto...light=posilock