thanks for the picture & info

 

would it be possible to bypass the radiator all to gether and just use the new cooler?

 

yes - no problem, but you will have slightly less cooling capacity. if you do, plug the radiator cooler so it doesn't get contaminated with dirt dobbers or bugs, just in case you ever want to go back to it.

 

Thought I'd share a few pictures from my trans cooler install today. It was pretty simple, just needed a fuel line disconnect tool, tubing cutter,and a flare tool (maybe not needed, just for my peace of mind). The trans cooler came with a small install kit with about 3' of hose, which would have been enough if I had measured a little more carefully, haha. Advance Auto Parts was where I got the cooler, the brand was Imperial, part number 241018. It measures 10"x15.5" and 3/4 inch thick. Was on sale for $39 & was the biggest one they had in stock.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler1.jpg

 

Are any of you running a temp gauge to see if the cooler has made any difference?

Reason I ask is because I have to be honest with you guys, I tested those smaller coolers like the one posted in the first post of this thread, and it made no difference in trans temps. I first ran a Hayden brand small tube/fin rated at about 15,000 GVW, and my trans temps never changed at all. Then I ran a B&M plate/fin (which is supposed to be better cooling capability then a tube/fin) rated at about 20,000 GVW, and I saw only about 5 degree difference during normal operating conditions. When it got real hot outside, or I towed/hauled loads, there was no difference at all, the cooler could not keep up during these heavy use conditions. Now, I run the Flex-a-lite 4232 which is a tube/fin rated at 32,000 GVW (made for a motorhome), and it is by far the best I have used. With it, I see temps about 35 degrees lower then normal during normal operating conditions, and when it is hot outside or I haul a load, I am still about 15 degrees cooler then what I usually see. I also installed a larger capacity aluminum pan (2 qts extra capacity), and that improved temps even more.

So I recommend you hook up a sending unit and gauge to your system to see if the cooler is even making any difference. I learned the hard way that the small ones just aren't enough for trucks this heavy.

FWIW, a trans cooler with its own integrated fan and thermostat is probably the best way to go above all else. That allows you to keep a more constant temperature, plus you have effective cooling whether you moving very fast or not. That is the downside of mine that I have noticed. If i'm not moving forward enough to get significant air though cooler, it does little good. Once i'm moving though, it is great.

 

i'll be monitoring trans temps soon, with and without the auxilary cooler, to see what kind of difference it makes. this was the heavy duty application for Imperial, not sure the GVW rating, but was the recommended model for motorhomes & large heavy equipment trucks. i'll be updating later this week

 

Cool. Ya, I couldn't see your pics because my work blocks anything from photobucket. I was refering more to the one at the beginning of this thread.

 

Silver,

Do you have any room at all left up front for a 12" slim fit pusher fan? That should help you at stops, cost about $50 with wiring and may only pull like 7 amps off the system.

I'm running a 16" puller on the back and a 14" pusher in front andit keeps everything cool, Rad, Tranny (factory auxcooler), and especially A/C! Total it's pulling maybe 17amps. I bought the flex a lite controller/wiring kit31165 that has remote Rad adjustable temp (via probe, A/C clutch, anda manual switch override tocontrol the fans (soft start, 60%-100% power throttling, 30 run after vehicle shut down). All total it ran me $230. I was a little impatient and wanted everything before summer break but I could have easily gotten all that done for under $200 had I shopped around.The thing runs cooler than it did last summer and you can just about see your breath with the AC on full blast if it's under 90* here.

That controller has about every feature you could want for a full fan setup, but if you just wanted to run manual when you towed a simple relay with underdash switch in the cabinwould work. You might also be able to run it off a switched ignition source to make it fully automatic.

 

So Silver, you ever gonna answer him or what. Hes only been waiting a few years now (sorry for bringing a up a dead thread, but I searched my way to it).

Anyway, Silver, do you still have a pic of the sensor you put in the front servo port? It appears you posted a pic of it in post #10, but it doesn't show up anymore. I am just looking into getting a temp gage hooked up to compliment my tranny cooler, and it sounds like you really like the outcome of where you installed yours so I would like to kinda do the same thing.

And another question (directed to everyone, not just Silver), is it better to have the fluid routed into the main radiator as well as the aftermarket cooler, or just the new cooler? I am asking because when I had my tranny rebuilt, I had them install the cooler too (which he highly recommended should be installed), but he totally bypassed the radiator. It seems to me it should be going into the radiator also for extra cooling. Whats your guys take?

Thanks for any input.


Brandon

 

if the cooler section of the radiator is functional and not contaminated, i think its best to use it. more=better. i'd also think its best to route the fluid through the radiator first, and then the aux cooler.