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transmission cooler and remote filter added

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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #31  
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vaham
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Originally Posted by PurplDodge
Upper line is not the PSI line.
Okay, I stand corrected... but then the thread below(and several other threads on here) are apparently incorrect about which line is the return line.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ve-delete.html
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dodge15004x45.9
So can we use the stock tranny cooler and an after market one? Is there any way we can flush the factory one out?
you could. the worst thing that could happen would be for the trans fluid to become too cool, which would prevent OD engagement. so - you'd know it. obviously this would be more likely in winter.

if you suspect the stock cooler might be full of metal, use caution in flushing and re-using it. to flush, use air pressure. if any doubt, discard it.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by vaham
Okay, I stand corrected... but then the thread below(and several other threads on here) are apparently incorrect about which line is the return line.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ve-delete.html
The bottom line that goes into the Radiator is the PSI line.

The fluid goes in the rad. in the bottom-Flows up to the top outlet.

Bottom-Inlet(Cuming from trans.)
Top-Outlet(Going back to trans.)
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Silver_Dodge
There is a lot of rumors about the front servo port. Some say that it only has fluid in it in certain gears, and that the reading is not accurate. Others say your only reading the temp out the housing your screwed into. I have run this long enough now that I think it is a very good place to put a sending unit. Once I was able to compare it to the temps I was seeing in the pan, I could tell that it was accurate. The governor port does absolutly have fluid in it all the time, but I know a guy who tried a sending unit in it, and got some readings that didn't seem right. I recently tired it myself for a day too, and got the same results. So I went back to the front servo, and am happy. All that you really need to know is when things are out of the norm, which you come to know just by watching the readings over a period of time.

Heres the ports:

[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/86C64E87420B4BDEAADB72B6C3D0EDF8.jpg[/IMG]
Hey silver, still got this pic?
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 01:19 AM
  #35  
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The Rumor:

Stefan Kondolay
Diesel Transmission Technology
http://www.dieseltrans.com/dodge/index.htm
Writes the following...

I showed this post to Bill & he asked me to put up the following for you guys to have as a reference. We kind of take it for granted that everyone knows this because we do this day in and out. Here is a little info that may help you if you don’t already know the functions of the ports. When we install & recommend temp gauges for customers we only like to see them done in the tranny out line and if necessary in the pan. We prefer the outline as it is the most accurate but if a customer wishes the pan is the 2nd place.. With the exception of the 1995 and earlier model trucks. Since this is a 3rd gen. it is very simple.

The transmission cooler temp line we use for the 3rd gen is the custom line we get from Mass Diesel 1-508-660-7093. The second choice is the pan. However we do not recommend the pan for guys towing heavy or off road guys

Very briefly I will go over the test ports so you guys can get an idea of their functions and it may explain our recommendations and will also give you some tools when considering advice.

On the passenger side of the transmission there are 4 pressure ports and the driver side there is one port.

1st. or Front Port is the Front Servo Port; I have seen guys ruin their transmissions by putting a temp sensor in here. If your temp sensor probe is long enough it will actually make contact with the spring in the front servo, causing problems in 2nd gear apply cycle. This pressure port only has oil in it when you are in 3rd gear, & 4th gear. Since your tranny will build its max heat in 1st, 2nd, or reverse this pressure port is pretty much useless for accurate readings.

2nd or Middle port is your mainline pressure or what is referred to as your accumulator port, this pressure port has oil in it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th but not in reverse. If you do not have an RV trailer chances are you are not going to overheat it when trying to back up your truck but if you do have a trailer again or want to monitor accurately it is a useless port.

3rd port is your low & reverse servo port. It is the one that faces towards the rear end. This pressure port has oil in it only during reverse & manual low applications. Making this pressure port pretty much useless to measure from as it has no oil in it during the 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear.

4th pressure port is the governor port. It is located about 4" above the 3rd pressure port. Basically this pressure port gets energized with vehicle speed. But it has no oil in it during reverse application.

# 5 pressure port is the 4th gear pressure port. It is located on the driver’s side of the transmission above the rear cooler line going into the transmission case.
It only has oil in it during overdrive apply. Hopefully after reading this you guys can see why we do not like customers using pressure ports to take readings from. A lot of customers use these ports because it is convenient; a lot of shops use these ports because it is a profitable & quick install.

If you measure your transmission oil from the transmission out line that is the hottest point to measure from . It also will give you a good indication of when to service your transmission. The best example I can give you is with reference to our own personal drag car. Most of time when we launch our drag car the temps are approx 275 degrees, but there have been times when we have exceeded 375 degrees, we know that it is time to change the oil as it is no longer any good. It has broken down and we can prevent damage by servicing. You guys may be surprised how high these trans can get to if you are trying to back up a big 5th wheel trailer. While it doesn’t mean you have wrecked your transmission it does mean the oil has been broken down. So from our point of view, don’t use the ports as they are not the most accurate point to do so from.

Hopefully some of this can help whoever got the advice to measure the oil from the reverse port. All of the above is verifiable by your service manuals.
 
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Old May 9, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by OlsenG_360
Thought I'd share a few pictures from my trans cooler install today. It was pretty simple, just needed a fuel line disconnect tool, tubing cutter,and a flare tool (maybe not needed, just for my peace of mind). The trans cooler came with a small install kit with about 3' of hose, which would have been enough if I had measured a little more carefully, haha. Advance Auto Parts was where I got the cooler, the brand was Imperial, part number 241018. It measures 10"x15.5" and 3/4 inch thick. Was on sale for $39 & was the biggest one they had in stock.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ansCooler1.jpg
i just got my trans rebuilt and the tech couldn't figure out why the transmission was overheating on the test drive (250º) and after some testing it turned out to be the aftermarket cooler, which is identical to yours. he put on the radiator style cooler like dhvaughan has on his truck and now it hangs around 150º to 160º and for his warranty it has to be below 176º. so you should get a heat gun (20$ at advance auto) and hop out after a 15-20 minute trip and check the cooler and transmission pan/housing to make sure its not getting too hot (180º+). that guy also said that he's never going to use that style cooler again, so i feel bad for all the previous customers that have one of those trans coolers on their vehicles.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #37  
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I was just curious about deleting the check valve from the cooler line? I want to do this on my truck, just to make sure i am getting as much flow as possible. But im not sure exactly where the check valve is, or what is the proper way to delete it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks!
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 01sportoffroad
I was just curious about deleting the check valve from the cooler line?
A link to a DIY thread for the check valve delete.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ve-delete.html
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:44 PM
  #39  
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Erm, two year old thread? I would hope he had figgered it out by now.... although, there IS a great deal of good info here.......
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:05 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Erm, two year old thread? I would hope he had figgered it out by now.... although, there IS a great deal of good info here.......

Looks to me like your the one who resurrected the dead thread


But, cheers for searching, noob LOL
 
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